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Old 05-02-2013, 02:37 AM   #11
Dec 2012
Posts: 2,059
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I'm brewing tomorrow using Columbus centennial and Simcoe. My plan is to use 0.5 ounce each centennial and Simcoe in a 30 minute hop stand and stir every 5 minutes or so just to keep it moving. Then I'm dry hopping with 0.5 ounce Columbus and and ounce of Simcoe.

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Old 05-02-2013, 12:40 PM   #12
Oct 2009
St. Petersburg, FL
Posts: 125
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I just used this technique in a recent IPA but for those of you that follow the Mad Fermentationist blog I used a technique that he does which included a two stage hop stand. My first addition was 2 oz of Nelson Sauvin hops and these were steeped immediately after flameout for 30 minutes. Then when I started my chill I added another ounce of Nelson. This batch is currently in its dry-hop stage but taste samples indicate an incredible Nelson hop flavor (this peach/apricot white grape juice).

Can't wait for this one and like an above poster said I will not brew another IPA without a hop-stand.
Gateway Brewing Co.
Primary: American Pale Ale

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Old 05-02-2013, 01:16 PM   #13
Dec 2012
Schenectady, NY
Posts: 447
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I'd be interested to hear from others experimenting with different quantities, temps, and time. I'm about to brew an IIPA and want to do a hop stand. I already have the ingredients so I'd really be interested in the most economic way to use this technique.
I was planning on 2oz for flameout and 4 for dry hop. I might move 2oz of the dry hop to a hop stand about 30 mins after flameout.

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Old 05-02-2013, 01:43 PM   #14
Mar 2012
Wilmington, Illinois
Posts: 87
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I've done a hop stand on my IPA for the last couple times I brewed it. I only do a couple ounces in the stand and 1-2 ounces for dry hopping (for a 5 gallon batch).

But what I do is get the wort to 140 as fast as possible then Do the hop stand for usually about 30 minutes. I read a while bak that if you get the wort down to the 140 range, then it lessens the chance for dms pre cursors (I think that's it) and other things.

Now the key though is to cover the vessel that I hop stand in. That way any of the volatiles from the hops won't escape through the steam. So I cover mine the entire hop stand.

With this technique, I (and my family and friends) have an IPA recipe that in my opinion, is better than most IPAs I have drank to date.

Just my own ways of doing things.

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Old 05-02-2013, 01:47 PM   #15
Feb 2012
Chagrin Falls, Ohio
Posts: 233
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Sounds like a great technique! I look forward to trying this.

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Old 05-02-2013, 01:52 PM   #16
Junior Member
Dec 2012
Lake Wissota, Wisconsin
Posts: 1,027
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I've been experimenting with hop stands for my last 5 or so batches and really like the results better than late boil additions.

Just Kegged a 2.5 gal Pale Ale with the only hop addition being 3 oz of Centennial (type) right at FO for 30 min. Stole a taste while kegging and it was plenty bitter with lots of good hoppy flavor. Aroma was good but not as good as dry hopping.

I think most of my IPA's and Pale Ales will be a combination of FWH, FO, and dry hopping in the future instead of late boil additions.

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Old 05-02-2013, 02:09 PM   #17
Dec 2012
Posts: 2,059
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I've brewed one IPA so far and I dry hopped with 0.5 ounce per gallon. This time I'm trying the hop stand and a 0.25 ounce per gallon dry hop. I'm hoping I get better flavor plus just as much aroma. Ill let everyone know how it goes.

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Old 05-02-2013, 10:31 PM   #18
Sep 2011
Bend, OR
Posts: 940
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I mentioned this before, but some of those essential hop oils volatilize at a low temperature (myrcene is 110F, I think). Depending on the character you want, doing a hop stand at a lower temperature might be more to one's liking.

The other thing to consider is that you definitely want a lid on your kettle while you're doing the stand, to re-capture anything that does volatilize and boil off.

Some people say 170F for 45 minutes works, some say 120F or lower for 15 minutes does wonders, and I've seen every combination of temp and time in between and beyond. Depends on the hops you're working with, the character you're after, and your methods.

More reading here.

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Old 05-03-2013, 02:55 AM   #19
Aug 2011
Carroll, IA
Posts: 452
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I have been working on an IPA (recipe, water treatment, hops, timing, procedure, etc) for a while now and reached out to the Mad Fermentationist for some help and he pointed me to a hopstand. For my last batch I used a total of 8 oz of hops for what would become a full 5 gallons. I wanted to add 3 ozs after chilling to 170, but my kiddos needed help and bye the time I got back the wort was @ 120, I added the 3 ozs anyway and steeped them for 35-45 mins before chilling the rest of the way. I used Simcoe ( a TON), Cascade and Chinook and the stand was 2 oz Simcoe/ 1 oz Cascade. Results were the best IPA I have made. Going to do a few small batches and try different temps and times, but this batch is fantastic! I also dry hopped w 2.5 ozs.

On a side note, I changed my dry hopping method for this beer. I added the pellets loose and swirled the carboy gently everyday and only left them in contact at room temp for 4 days and then cold crashed for 2 days, aroma is a bit grassy, but beer is young, otherwise reminds me of a cross between Myrcenary and All Day IPA.

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Old 05-03-2013, 03:02 AM   #20
Nov 2008
Tampa, FL
Posts: 481
Liked 15 Times on 10 Posts

great feedback, glad to hear that this is a legit technique. I'm planning to brew the Heady Topper clone that they listed along with this article for my next brew. I have one can of Heady that I've been sitting on, I'm going to culture the Conan yeast from the can and use it for the clone recipe.

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