Coldbreak Brewing HERMS Giveaway!

HomeBrewSupply AMCYL Brew Kettle Giveaway!


Home Brew Forums > Home Brewing Beer > Electric Brewing > Testing a 240v control panel with 120v
Reply
 
Thread Tools
Old 04-28-2013, 12:10 AM   #11
Dan_HBT
Feedback Score: 0 reviews
Recipes 
 
Join Date: Aug 2010
Location: Albany, NY
Posts: 20
Default

Did you say you were going to split the 120v hot lead and connect that to the two hot leads of the 240v? That would result in a direct short, the hot leads of a 240V system are both 120V but 180 degrees out of phase so the difference is 240V.


Dan_HBT is offline
 
Reply With Quote
Old 04-28-2013, 12:16 AM   #12
Shockerengr
Feedback Score: 0 reviews
Recipes 
 
Join Date: Feb 2007
Posts: 454
Liked 23 Times on 20 Posts
Likes Given: 1

Default

Quote:
Originally Posted by Dan_HBT View Post
Did you say you were going to split the 120v hot lead and connect that to the two hot leads of the 240v? That would result in a direct short, the hot leads of a 240V system are both 120V but 180 degrees out of phase so the difference is 240V.
Actually it will result in - nothing. Anything 240 hooked up will just see 0 V across the hots, and 120v to ground / neutral.


Shockerengr is offline
 
Reply With Quote
Old 04-28-2013, 12:21 AM   #13
Dan_HBT
Feedback Score: 0 reviews
Recipes 
 
Join Date: Aug 2010
Location: Albany, NY
Posts: 20
Default

Your're right, I realized that as soon as I posted. Either way though its probably not a good idea. An ohmmeter and a triple check of the wiring to the diagram should be all that is needed. Although powering up an incorrectly wired panel will let you know where the problem is instantaneously.
Dan_HBT is offline
 
Reply With Quote
Old 04-28-2013, 01:51 AM   #14
Shockerengr
Feedback Score: 0 reviews
Recipes 
 
Join Date: Feb 2007
Posts: 454
Liked 23 Times on 20 Posts
Likes Given: 1

Default

yup, meter everything out first. but a power on check doesn't hurt. when I did mine I realized I had the pumps and lights flipped on the wiring - forgot to mirror things when I wired from the backside.
Shockerengr is offline
 
Reply With Quote
Old 04-28-2013, 03:43 AM   #15
LandoLincoln
HBT_SUPPORTER.png
Feedback Score: 0 reviews
 
LandoLincoln's Avatar
Recipes 
 
Join Date: Feb 2011
Location: Joliet, IL
Posts: 2,799
Liked 968 Times on 519 Posts
Likes Given: 25

Default

Quote:
Originally Posted by Dan_HBT View Post
Your're right, I realized that as soon as I posted. Either way though its probably not a good idea. An ohmmeter and a triple check of the wiring to the diagram should be all that is needed. Although powering up an incorrectly wired panel will let you know where the problem is instantaneously.
Yes, I tested all of the circuits. I just wanted to see the pretty lights and hear the contactors click open and closed. But I'm going to wait.
__________________
www.jolietbrewersguild.org
LandoLincoln is offline
 
Reply With Quote
Old 04-28-2013, 03:50 AM   #16
Shockerengr
Feedback Score: 0 reviews
Recipes 
 
Join Date: Feb 2007
Posts: 454
Liked 23 Times on 20 Posts
Likes Given: 1

Default

Quote:
Originally Posted by LandoLincoln View Post
Yes, I tested all of the circuits. I just wanted to see the pretty lights and hear the contactors click open and closed. But I'm going to wait.
A stronger man than I....I had as many lights on as soon as I could
Shockerengr is offline
 
Reply With Quote
Old 04-30-2013, 04:47 PM   #17
kal
HBT_SUPPORTER.png
Feedback Score: 0 reviews
 
kal's Avatar
Recipes 
 
Join Date: Nov 2006
Location: Ottawa, Canada
Posts: 2,294
Liked 252 Times on 170 Posts
Likes Given: 6

Default

Quote:
Originally Posted by LandoLincoln View Post
I don't know what there would be to reconfigure. I don't have any lights that run on 240v. Nothing is 240v except for the power going to the elements, which I'm not going to be testing.
If your panel is like my documented design(s) then yes, you can test it easily with a standard 120V / 15A outlet without any rewiring required. This is possible since all the devices inside are 120V. The only devices that require 240V are the heating elements.

You simply need to hook up the 3 wires (120V HOT, NEUTRAL, and GROUND) correctly.

I tested my 30A panel exactly like this back when I first built it:



Disclaimer: This is for testing purposes only. Even safer would have been to attach the 120V/15A power cord to the 30A locking connector (instead of how it attached above) so that I could plug it/unplug it saftely.

Kal
kal is offline
 
Reply With Quote
Old 04-30-2013, 04:49 PM   #18
kal
HBT_SUPPORTER.png
Feedback Score: 0 reviews
 
kal's Avatar
Recipes 
 
Join Date: Nov 2006
Location: Ottawa, Canada
Posts: 2,294
Liked 252 Times on 170 Posts
Likes Given: 6

Default

You do see 0V on the voltmeter however as someone above pointed out:





But everything still works. You can test everything but the voltmeter and heating element receptacles.
The pumps will even work.

Kal


kal is offline
 
Reply With Quote
Reply


Thread Tools


Similar Threads
Thread Thread Starter Forum Replies Last Post
2 Vessel, 2 PID, 3 element 120V Control Panel wiring hustlebird Electric Brewing 3 04-02-2013 07:44 PM
240v or 120v ronan Electric Brewing 19 10-03-2012 11:31 PM
120V Control Panel Build chaserchap Electric Brewing 3 02-01-2012 09:25 PM
120v Control Panel + 220v quick add on = Ultimate mobility? wh4tig0t Electric Brewing 2 01-11-2011 06:33 AM
Strange issue with 240v legs. 120v on both, no 240v Brewmoor Electric Brewing 5 12-03-2010 07:15 PM


Forum Jump

Newest Threads

LATEST SPONSOR DEALS