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Old 06-28-2010, 11:32 AM   #41
ceannt
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I stopped transfering to secondary about 20-years ago.... My average time in Primary is anywhere from 5-7 weeks. No problems with clarity... and my beer improved dramatically. I don't use glass, never have on a regular basis... PITA to clean, heavy and bad things happen when dropped. I don't see (or taste) any negative affects of the plastic compared to glass (the few times I have used glass) It's amazing how many things that I've been doing for years are becoming "accepted" or are considered the "new" way of doing thinigs, that back in the '80s were considered heretical.... and would have gotten me burnt at the stake if the "beer inquisition" had known....


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Old 07-20-2010, 12:33 PM   #42
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Use books & kit instructions for information to develop your own style of brewing. Iff we all followed instructions to the letter there would be no development.

Regards Trevor

Lancashire UK


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Old 08-10-2015, 11:39 PM   #43
MacBrewsky
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Default You Guys are persuading me to increase my Primary Time

I have only been home brewing for nine months and like brewing high ABV IPA (really APA) and Pale Ales. I am a total Hop Head (citrus/spice aroma and a bitter finish). I generally Primary for 7 - 12 days (less than one bubble per 90 seconds) and then transfer to a secondary to dry hop for seven days. I have been very happy with both IPA/APA brews and satisfied with the Pale's.

Reading this thread leads me to think, I should consider going at least three weeks in the Primary, then add the hops to the Primary (for dry hopping) for another four to seven days before bottling. Am I on the right track?

Also, due to some carbing problems with my first Brown and Amber Ale, I have been using Bottle Conditioning yeast. Is this necessary for IPA/APA or Pale Ales? To ensure adequate yeast transfer from the Primary or Secondary, do I need to stir up the trub, or is there still enough suspended yeast for good carbing?
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Old 08-11-2015, 01:56 AM   #44
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I posted a few comments awhile back.... actually years ago.... 3-4 weeks in the primary is pretty normal, going longer is ok. Kind of like you stated, if you let the yeast drop out you might have too add bottling yeast.

I switched to kegging and that issue is a thing of the past. I personally don't like adding yeast a second time. I'd rather bottle condition longer and at a higher temperature. You can also rouse the yeast every few days too. Shake the bottles.

Key, I think is try to bottle within 6 weeks for a session beer. If I was add yeast at bottling I'd do "Muntons Premium Gold" for compact sedimentation. Sometimes you just have to do it for big beers.

Take look at published yeast flocculation percentages. Flocculation is about how much stays in suspension. Lower numbers will be more forgiving on carbing as the beer sits waiting for you.

Also weigh out your priming sugars, boil water, and bulk prime if you're not doing this already. A common rookie problem with priming is volume measurement vs weighing. Go to a gram scale measurement for more resolution, accuracy, less rounding. Don't forget about your total priming volume if it's more than 5 gallons you might need bump up the priming amount.

As for dry hopping, I always do a 2ndary. I like my beer clear and without sediment. That said, dry hop no longer than two weeks other wise the beer will get a grassy taste.
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Old 08-11-2015, 02:11 AM   #45
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Muntons Description of Premium Gold

"The yeast rehydrates at 20C and therefore simply requires sprinkling onto the surface of your wort - no need to stir - and the yeast will rehydrate and activate within just a few hours.

The yeast has excellent crusting characteristics forming a firm 'jelly like' deposit at the bottom of the fermenter and bottle or barrel.

Flavour profile is excellent and the yeast has the ability to drop out of suspension very rapidly.

There is a major benefit if you are bottling your beer. When pouring your beer you will not disturb the firm yeast sediment and therefore can fill your glass safe in the knowledge that it will be a clear bright pint.

This benefit also applies when you are siphoning your beer from the fermenter into your bottles or barrel. Once again the firm crusting characteristics will ensure that you transfer all of your beer to your bottles or barrel and therefore will not waste any."


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