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Home Brew Forums > Home Brewing Beer > Beginners Beer Brewing Forum > Using whirlfloc and chilling wort post boil.
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Old 08-14-2013, 05:02 PM   #41
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Originally Posted by Yankeepride15 View Post
While you're using your wort chiller, just grab it (wear gloves) and swirl the wort with the chiller until it makes a little vortex. It'll also keep your temperatures from stratifying as you chill. Once I had my temp down to where I wanted it, I pulled the chiller and covered the kettle with sanitized foil (I suppose the lid would have worked, too)
Wont this give a chance towards infection, especially with the moisture or condensation formed around the normal temp "lid or foil" that you would put on a hot kettle?


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Old 08-15-2013, 01:01 AM   #42
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Wont this give a chance towards infection, especially with the moisture or condensation formed around the normal temp "lid or foil" that you would put on a hot kettle?
Not likely. The condensation forms from the steam that already bacteria/germ free.


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Old 08-21-2013, 05:58 PM   #43
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So I just got an email from AHS advertising "clarity ferm". Apparently this will prevent chill haze. The problem is you have to add the whole vial to one batch before pitching the yeast. At almost $3 a vial I'm not sure if it's worth it. Thoughts???

Here's the link: http://www.austinhomebrew.com/produc...ign=Newsletter
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Old 11-02-2013, 07:25 AM   #44
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Chill Haze fixes: Polyclar in fermenter let sit for say a week then rack to keg etc.

Filtering: Drop temp as low as possible, colder the better and filter through a .5 micron or smaller (.3 or .25 micron) filter. .5 shouldn't effect flavor much. Dryhopped beers probably will lose aroma though.

There's another fining called biofine that I might order. I forgot to last hop order. beerandwinefilter.com carries it.

I really don't care if my beer has chill haze unless it's a Pilsner since I prefer the aesthetic of a clear pils. I usually just filter through a 1 micron absolute pleated cartridge filter to remove yeast.

Due to space issues I typically keg beers after about 10 days and then cold store them in the garage in the winter or in the fridge in the summer and filter keg to keg.

A lot of breweries wait till fermentation is complete, dump the yeast (conicals) then cold crash to -2c for 3 weeks before bottling/kegging. I have seen beer filtered and bottled 10 days after yeast pitch. That surprised me at the time.


Oh, I should add that there is more than one kind of polyclar. There's a kind that goes into the kettle (can't remember what it is for) And there is one is neg charged and one is positive charged. (Both go into fermenter after fermentation is complete). I think the one for chill haze is called polyclar VT.
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Old 11-02-2013, 01:01 PM   #45
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I've found that Fivestar super moss gets rid of all the chill haze I was getting from my pm batches. When I top off the chilled wort i the fermenter,it helps settle out cold break as well.
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Old 11-02-2013, 07:36 PM   #46
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Do you suggest I let the wort settle for a while before pouring into the fermenter?
Absolutely.

You can (and should) stir it quite a bit while chilling. Then simply cover the kettle (with sanitized lid or aluminum foil) after chilling is complete and leave it be for 15-20 minutes. This allows a great deal of the gunk, including the proteins that Whirlfloc helps make heavier, time to settle to the bottom.


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Wont this give a chance towards infection, especially with the moisture or condensation formed around the normal temp "lid or foil" that you would put on a hot kettle?
Not if you spray your lid/foil with StarSan. You're going to have to keep the lid off so that you can stir while chilling. The lid/foil is for after the wort has chilled.
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Old 11-03-2013, 02:16 PM   #47
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Absolutely.

You can (and should) stir it quite a bit while chilling. Then simply cover the kettle (with sanitized lid or aluminum foil) after chilling is complete and leave it be for 15-20 minutes. This allows a great deal of the gunk, including the proteins that Whirlfloc helps make heavier, time to settle to the bottom.




Not if you spray your lid/foil with StarSan. You're going to have to keep the lid off so that you can stir while chilling. The lid/foil is for after the wort has chilled.
Every beer I've made this far has been clear of chill haze after about a week in the fridge. Letting the wort settle after chilling has been the key.
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Old 11-03-2013, 05:46 PM   #48
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Originally Posted by BansheeRider
Every beer I've made this far has been clear of chill haze after about a week in the fridge. Letting the wort settle after chilling has been the key.
Meh. I never let it settle. Mine haze up at first but are crystal clear with 1 week of cold conditioning. All that break material is gonna drop out in the fermentor anyway, so I guess it's really about if you care about that stuff going into your fermentation or not.
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Old 11-03-2013, 06:09 PM   #49
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Meh. I never let it settle. Mine haze up at first but are crystal clear with 1 week of cold conditioning. All that break material is gonna drop out in the fermentor anyway, so I guess it's really about if you care about that stuff going into your fermentation or not.
Having the means to cold crash your fermenter will result in clearer beer going into your bottles or keg. I don't have the equipment to do that, so letting the break material settle in the kettle helps a lot.
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Old 11-04-2013, 01:05 PM   #50
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Originally Posted by BansheeRider
Having the means to cold crash your fermenter will result in clearer beer going into your bottles or keg. I don't have the equipment to do that, so letting the break material settle in the kettle helps a lot.
I don't cold crash either. Or fine, or filter. Not saying its bad to do that or trying to deride your process. Just saying whirfloc alone does the trick for me and I don't seem to need any extra steps.


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