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Old 04-14-2013, 04:28 PM   #11
Pratzie
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good lookin' brew right thurrrrr
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Old 04-20-2013, 04:33 PM   #12
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Originally Posted by Pratzie View Post
No ur good. Whirlfloc deals mostly with the coagulation of proteins for the cold and hot break. It allows these proteins to coagulate together, basically becoming bigger/heavier and dropping to the bottom. Not using whirlfloc or irish moss will keep more of these proteins suspended in the wort, which can lead to hazy beer. Yes it can drop into trub in the kettle but it can also occurr in ur fermentation vessel so in theory u can still dump everything from ur kettle into ur fermentor and still see a difference when using whirlfloc/irish moss.

This is a link i bookmarked a few months back when i was throwing around the idea of using a tablet. every batch i make that isn't a wheat beer or belgian gets a tab. Yooper knows her **** and she posts some good scientific stuff on how it works.
http://www.homebrewtalk.com/f37/whir...xtract-192043/

Something else u can consider depending on your BK, is a diptube. U can cant the tube at a slight angle, make a whirlpool and alot of the hops particulars and any strain grains and other material will "dome" in the center of ur BK, while the diptube sucks out all the wort from alongside it. I am fine tunning my dip tube angle on my new keggle and its nice because alot of the stuff gets left in the BK for easy rinsing while all the good stuff gets into the fermentor.
Good point, but your post hurt my eyes.
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Old 04-20-2013, 04:43 PM   #13
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Originally Posted by guldalian View Post
Don't bother letting it settle. I stir mine with the immersion chiller the entire time (it helps efficiency), and while it does kick up the sediment, it settles out very quickly. Even if it goes in the fermenter, it will all settle out down into the yeast cake.

Attachment 115387
Your beer makes my mouth water.
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Old 04-20-2013, 04:52 PM   #14
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Originally Posted by BansheeRider View Post
Is stirring the wort while chilling counter productive if you used whirlfloc in the boil? I read that whirlfloc will pull proteins and other materials down during the cold break, which results in a much clearer beer. Stirring keeps everything in suspension, however stirring helps the wort cool faster. I also strain my wort using the paint strainer bags. I'm wondering if stirring the wort contradicts the use of whirlfloc. Sorry for the newbie question but I want to use whirlfloc the correct way. Thanks!
I use whirlfloc all the time and I also stir my wort while using my wort chiller. I also use a muslin bag for my hops and spices. I know some people are against this but I use a large muslin bag and let as much of the bag into the boil as possible so that the hops are as loose as possible and not bunched up in a ball. This helps greatly will keeping the beer clearer. Also depending how far you want to go, you can rack to a secondary and cold crash for a few days to let any trub set up, then siphon into your keg or bottling bucket.

 
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Old 04-20-2013, 04:55 PM   #15
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It's been a week or so since I kegged and after about 5 pints my beer is still cloudy from chill haze. Maybe I should have borrowed my friends filter system. I get good hot breaks in my boil, I cool the wort in under 30 min with an ice bath and get a good cold break. I'm not sure why my beer has chill haze while using whirlfloc and using good wort chilling methods.
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Old 04-20-2013, 04:57 PM   #16
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Quote:
Originally Posted by jb3218 View Post
I use whirlfloc all the time and I also stir my wort while using my wort chiller. I also use a muslin bag for my hops and spices. I know some people are against this but I use a large muslin bag and let as much of the bag into the boil as possible so that the hops are as loose as possible and not bunched up in a ball. This helps greatly will keeping the beer clearer. Also depending how far you want to go, you can rack to a secondary and cold crash for a few days to let any trub set up, then siphon into your keg or bottling bucket.
I don't have the means to cold crash in secondary, unless I use my keg as a secondary. Also no sediment goes into the fermenter because I use a strainer bag to catch all the crap.
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Old 04-22-2013, 11:57 AM   #17
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Quote:
Originally Posted by BansheeRider View Post
It's been a week or so since I kegged and after about 5 pints my beer is still cloudy from chill haze. Maybe I should have borrowed my friends filter system. I get good hot breaks in my boil, I cool the wort in under 30 min with an ice bath and get a good cold break. I'm not sure why my beer has chill haze while using whirlfloc and using good wort chilling methods.
How long do you let it sit in the secondary? I use irish moss (~ 1g/L) in the last 15 min of the boil and send everything but the hops through a plate chiller almost immediately. I get an insane cold break in the fermenter, but the beer is still a bit hazy. If I keg it too soon, I get crazy chill haze and a ton of sediment in the keg. After 3-4 weeks in the secondary, however, it is crystal clear, even when chilled and there is virtually no sediment in the keg.

 
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Old 04-22-2013, 02:34 PM   #18
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Quote:
Originally Posted by ChiechiBrouw View Post
How long do you let it sit in the secondary? I use irish moss (~ 1g/L) in the last 15 min of the boil and send everything but the hops through a plate chiller almost immediately. I get an insane cold break in the fermenter, but the beer is still a bit hazy. If I keg it too soon, I get crazy chill haze and a ton of sediment in the keg. After 3-4 weeks in the secondary, however, it is crystal clear, even when chilled and there is virtually no sediment in the keg.
I usually get really clear beer after 2 weeks in primary and week in secondary. Sometimes I just do 3-4 weeks in primary and still have clear beer going through the siphon. My beer is always clear until I chill it and the haze starts to appear.
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Old 04-23-2013, 12:02 PM   #19
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I stopped caring on clarity it will come with more time in the bottle.
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Old 04-23-2013, 12:21 PM   #20
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I used my fivestar super moss for the first time on my NZ IPA PM last Sunday. I dissolved it in 4 oz of cool spring water,rather than cooled wort as recommended though. Added in the last 10 minutes of the boil,it did something I've never seen before. It made bubbles of wort "jump" out of the surface of the rolling boil waves. Weird.
But it did settle a lot of stuff out during the chill, The grains of protiens,etc weren't very big,but there was a substancial amount of it. I stired during the ice bath,but let it settle before straining into the FV. I strained out over 1C of gunk easily,with more left in the bottom of the BK/MT.It went into the fermenter a lot clearer than usual. So I have high hopes that this "settles" my chil haze problems from the fine crush on the grains for PB/PM BIAB I do.
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