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Old 04-12-2013, 02:09 PM   #1
LKHA
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tried this twice this winter out of pure laziness. Both times was hard to start fermentation with dry yeast but both turned out great. I am in Iowa so worked in winter would not try in summer. both beers are good drinkers.


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Old 04-12-2013, 04:47 PM   #2
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I have done no chill several times both winter & summer. I have never noticed any difference in yeast starting. As soon as I turn the flame off I start to drain into a corny keg, seal it up & place on my basement floor. 12 - 24 hrs later I am at pitching temp; rack into carboy & pitch. All beers have tasted the same to the regular chill recipe. I no chill to save water & time; also, my immersion chiller was under sized.



 
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Old 04-14-2013, 03:58 AM   #3
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Chilling the beer quickly mostly is for preventing chill haze from proteins and also to prevent bacteria infection. Have you noticed your beers being more hazy from not chilling?

 
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Old 04-14-2013, 04:01 AM   #4
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ull find similar threads on here from people stating the same thing. One reason or another they don't chill and wait a day and pitch. Seems to still make a great brew.
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Old 04-14-2013, 07:00 AM   #5
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Quote:
Originally Posted by jordinio View Post
Chilling the beer quickly mostly is for preventing chill haze from proteins and also to prevent bacteria infection. Have you noticed your beers being more hazy from not chilling?
Nope.

 
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Old 04-14-2013, 08:19 AM   #6
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The "cold" tap water here in the summer is often 95-97, and since I brew 10-12 gal batches it takes an incredible amount of ice to chill under those conditions. When the water's cold enough I use my chiller because it's fast and easy, but during the summer I just transfer to a keg, seal it up, and throw in my ferm chamber for 24 hrs. Whether using the chiller or the no-chill method, I like to bring the wort down to ~2 below the planned fermentation temp before pitching, and then let it rise to ferm temp. I've noticed no difference in lag, fermentation time, clarity, or flavor between the two methods.

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Chilling the beer quickly mostly is for preventing chill haze from proteins and also to prevent bacteria infection. Have you noticed your beers being more hazy from not chilling?
I haven't noticed any difference in the end product. I always either let my beers sit for 4+ weeks, or cold crash before kegging, and they're always clear going into the keg, chill or no-chill.
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Old 04-14-2013, 12:37 PM   #7
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No haze here either.

 
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Old 04-15-2013, 05:07 PM   #8
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I am entertaining no chill myself, never even thought of using my kegs. I assume there is nothing wrong with no chilling in a corny keg then fermenting in the same keg?

Also, once you seal the keg hot, any tips on when you open it once cooled down? Does the keg build pressure from the heated wort or the opposite?

 
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Old 04-15-2013, 05:50 PM   #9
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Yambor44 View Post
I am entertaining no chill myself, never even thought of using my kegs. I assume there is nothing wrong with no chilling in a corny keg then fermenting in the same keg?

Also, once you seal the keg hot, any tips on when you open it once cooled down? Does the keg build pressure from the heated wort or the opposite?
No pressure; actually as the wort cools it should create a vacuum. For this reason after sealing the keg I hit it with gas & then cover the keg with a towel soaked with StarSan. I have not fermented in the keg; I rack to a carboy & leave most of the trub behind. But, I have heard of people doing just as you describe.

 
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Old 04-21-2013, 01:28 PM   #10
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Quote:
Originally Posted by djt17
No pressure; actually as the wort cools it should create a vacuum. For this reason after sealing the keg I hit it with gas & then cover the keg with a towel soaked with StarSan. I have not fermented in the keg; I rack to a carboy & leave most of the trub behind. But, I have heard of people doing just as you describe.
How much psi do you use?

What's the purpose of the Starsan soaked towel?



 
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