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Old 04-10-2013, 10:47 PM   #1
cliffhanger1821
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Jan 2011
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As I'm waiting for my Stout kettle to arrive I realize I need to brew, and soon. I'm building a single pid controlled ebiab controller, using mostly Auber Instruments gear, and stealing a lot from voltin, P-J, and many others who have gone before me and helped immensely. More on that later. I have a 60 amp gfci installed in my main panel, which I'm running out to my brewshed, and I want to run a ebiab keggle off of this (I had originally planned on doing a 3v herms, hence the 60a gfci). So on to the point of this new thread : : :

To hold me over until my new Stout kettle gets here, and I build a nice controller, I am building a simple, cheap (hopefully), electric controller for my e-keggle with parts sourced mostly from ebay. I already bought this ssvr/potentiometer
http://www.ebay.com/itm/140553987088...84.m1439.l2649
and other than that, want to install a simple DPST 30a switch to kill power prior to the SSVR/Pot. Question is, will any of these switches (especially the red one, because it looks cool) fit the bill?
http://www.globalindustrial.com/p/el...Pole-Pilot-Red
http://www.ebay.com/itm/Square-D-mot...item19dab629be
I am going to put it all in a junction box from Lowe's (probably) and was going use a 3 prong dryer plug as receptacle and my source of wire for the build.
[URL=http://imageshack.us/photo/my-images/29/easykettlecontroller.jpg/]

And that's it, except for the heatsink for the SSVR . One switch, variable power control, element in keggle. Works?

 
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Old 04-10-2013, 11:28 PM   #2
mendesm
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Looks like it'll work.

 
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Old 04-10-2013, 11:43 PM   #3
mattd2
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Cant see the ebay links due to work but you diagram doesn't make sense, is the SSR/pot. you are talking about a seperate SSR and pot. or is it an SCR unit? Can you post a picture from the ebay listing?

 
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Old 04-11-2013, 12:19 AM   #4
cliffhanger1821
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[URL=http://imageshack.us/photo/my-images/201/ssrpot.jpg/]

 
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Old 04-11-2013, 01:07 AM   #5
Swamproad
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I am looking at doing the same except using this switch: http://www.homedepot.com/p/t/1003569...1#.UWYMki0o6P8

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Old 04-11-2013, 01:36 AM   #6
cliffhanger1821
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Swamproad View Post
I am looking at doing the same except using this switch: http://www.homedepot.com/p/t/1003569...1#.UWYMki0o6P8
Nice, I hadn't found that one yet. I wonder if it's rated to 30a for 120v only though, and maybe only 13a for 277v? It lists both voltages under specifications, but only one amperage rating. If 30a at 277v, I'm all in for that one instead...

 
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Old 04-13-2013, 01:17 AM   #7
cliffhanger1821
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Swamproad View Post
I am looking at doing the same except using this switch: http://www.homedepot.com/p/t/1003569...1#.UWYMki0o6P8
Can anyone help me understand about this one, or can I go look at it at Home Depot and figure it out? I thought most switches with dual voltage ratings had a lower amperage rating at the higher voltage, but this one doesn't list anything. Obviously, I can't use a 15A/120v rated light switch to control my element, too much current etc. I was hoping this one will work but don't want to find out it doesn't with a smoke test.

 
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Old 04-13-2013, 02:33 AM   #8
jCOSbrew
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I have a similar setup w/ the phase angle ssr and a pid. Works great for eBIAB.

Hd and lowers have a dpdt light switch rated 220v and 30 amps.

I would consider using you full size panel with a panel mount switch and a contactor to enable/disable the element. This will make not easy to add a PID.

 
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Old 06-06-2013, 03:55 AM   #9
Black_Z28
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Any update on this project? I'm curious to hear the results.

 
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Old 06-13-2013, 09:55 AM   #10
cliffhanger1821
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Just got back from a short mission, now im taking two weeks off to brew and work on my little projects like this. I'll post up as soon as I'm done.

 
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