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Old 04-11-2013, 01:11 PM   #11
Mcaudio
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I use DME and always add half at the beginning of the boil and the other half at 15 minutes. My color is usually spot on.

Can't speak for LME.

 
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Old 04-11-2013, 01:51 PM   #12
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Ive become a fan of partial mash, late addition, brewing over the past year. Ive not noticed any adverse effect on flavor.

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Old 04-11-2013, 08:14 PM   #13
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Well after these next two extract kits are finished I'm going to take the leap to all grain. I just wanted to try a few techniques I've been reading about to improve my extract brewing while I'm doing it.

On the hefe I'll try adding all the dme at the beginning, and on my milk stout I'm going to add 3# Munich DME at the beginning and 5# dark DME at the end, and see how it turns out
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Old 04-18-2013, 01:54 AM   #14
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I see no advantage to boiling DME for 10 minutes to sterilize; it's not necessary. I add 10-15% after the first hop addition and the balance at flame out. Never experienced any problems and the color/flavor remain fresh.

 
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Old 04-18-2013, 05:50 PM   #15
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That's because pasteurization happens at 162F,NOT at 212F. Too many think extract has to be seriously thoroughly boiled to hell & back to sanitize it. not true at all. Since pasteurization happens at 162F,flame out additions are fine because the wort is still boiling hot. These late additions are done quickly,so the wort is still more than hot enough to pasteurize,which takes mere seconds. I give it a few minutes myself,then into ice bath.
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Old 10-09-2013, 06:33 PM   #16
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I follow uniondr's technique, 7 batches later and I think this method works absolutely great, simple process that produces great beer.

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Old 10-09-2013, 11:28 PM   #17
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I was doing small boil and late addition (extract) way back in 1994 (years before it was "officially" designated to be "discovered" by a well known brewer)

I was doing so because I had small pots at the time.

To answer your question, since you are doing a full boil then just add it all in.

What I "discovered" (not really) about small boils was really based upon hop utilization. I was worried more about the balance of the brew. Achieving a better color (not too dark) was a bonus.

Way back then I read Papazian's The Complete Joy of Homebrewing (1st ed) nearly every day. I have the 3rd Ed now so I will refer to it.

My "AHA!" moment was when I read the Hop Utilization Chart on page 258. The second block (going downward) reads: "LBS OF MALT EXTRACT PER GALLONS OF BOILING WATER". Then reading across it identifies the 1 lb through 5 lbs.

I thought, since I only boil 2 gallons why not add only 2 lbs of malt and add the rest at the end? This maxes out (or is close enough) the hop utilization at 60 mins.

Anyway, it always worked for me.

I do all grain full boils now and don't do all extract anymore, but it's difficult to lose knowledge...unless you're Gary Busey.
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Old 10-11-2013, 02:20 AM   #18
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Shooter View Post
Maybe it's just me, but I always do the DME first, 60 minute addition, and then add the LME in the last ten minutes, turn down the heat and stir well of course.
Yup, but to be honest...i dont remember why.

 
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Old 10-12-2013, 10:57 AM   #19
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Quote:
Originally Posted by MisterClean View Post
I figure to keep the cooler clean, my plan is to boil the cooler the last 15, then pull it with some tongs and just hold it out above the wort while I stir in the DME. The few seconds it'll be exposed to the air probably won't hurt anything.
I wouldn't bother removing the chiller, the extract will dissolve in the hot wort in a few minutes regardless. This sounds difficult IMHO.

 
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Old 10-12-2013, 06:54 PM   #20
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When I was doing extract,I used 1.5-2lbs of plain DME in the 2.5-3 gallon boil. Remainder at flame out with all the LME/Cooper's can. I do PB/PM BIAB now,& add the 3.3lbs of LME or 3lbs of DME at flame out. Either way gives better flavor & lighter color.
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