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Old 04-10-2013, 03:59 PM   #11
skepace
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Thanks for the help. I know Cold Crashing only helps to clear the beer. I got a fridge thermometer so I can better control the temps. I love having my beer kegged now.
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Old 05-10-2013, 01:10 AM   #12
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I have a slight twist on this question. My Pliny the Elder clone is currently dry hopping (with pellets). I was going to drop the temp on the fridge tomorrow and keg the beer on Sunday. However, I was going to pull one gallon out before kegging and bottle it (I take the gallon of beer, ad appropriate amount of sugar in the bottling bucket then fill a few bombers for sharing). I've been doing the one gallon bottle thing for a while but I hadn't cold crashed the beer before. Will the cold crashing knock so much yeast out that the bottles won't carb up?

 
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Old 05-10-2013, 01:13 AM   #13
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Quote:
Originally Posted by LarryC View Post
Will the cold crashing knock so much yeast out that the bottles won't carb up?
No. No issue at all. You can keep it near freezing for a couple of months and that won't be a problem.
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Old 05-10-2013, 01:54 AM   #14
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Yooper View Post
No. No issue at all. You can keep it near freezing for a couple of months and that won't be a problem.
I don't think I can wait that long to start tasting the Pliny, but it's good to know. Thanks Yooper!

 
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Old 05-10-2013, 11:06 AM   #15
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2 days work for me. I used to do a cool crash (just ice packs leaned up against the carboy like Stonehedge). I would do two cool crashes, once before transfer or dry hop, and once before bottling. Results were....okay. Now I cool crash, then the next morning throw it in the fridge for two days. Dry hop, then cool crash before bottling.

Try not to cold crash a dry hopped beer if possible. Could be wrong, I've read a few "chemists" explanation of hop oils attaching to the surface of yeast. I've also read that some top breweries (stone...Russian river) dry hop after the beer is cleared, again from people, not the source With that in mind, crash first then dry hop. For what its worth, I like the results better.

 
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Old 05-15-2013, 03:27 PM   #16
doublebogey10
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If bottling, is it OK to bottle straight from the cold crash ... at temps below 40? Or is it better to raise it back into the 60s before bottle? Does it matter?

 
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Old 05-15-2013, 05:52 PM   #17
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Quote:
Originally Posted by doublebogey10 View Post
If bottling, is it OK to bottle straight from the cold crash ... at temps below 40? Or is it better to raise it back into the 60s before bottle? Does it matter?
Doesn't matter...there will be some expansion when the beer warms. Since I bottle in a different area than I cold crash, I move the carboy and give it a few hours to resettle. The warming is a side effect of being out but I don't mind it.

 
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Old 05-16-2013, 01:05 PM   #18
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Thanks, Cali.

 
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Old 05-16-2013, 01:50 PM   #19
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I usually cold crash for 2 days before kegging.

I had an issue with my better bottle during my last cold crash. The seal was so tight that cooling the fermenter caused the better bottle to compress. It looked like a crushed beer can. It sucked the starsan out of the airlock. I was a little concerned, because when I broke the airlock seal to keg there was a loud whooshing sound as air was sucked back into the better bottle (so much for minimizing O2 contact). In that case I think letting it warm up would have been a good choice.

That's only happened once. I'm still aging that beer, so I don't know if there will be any oxidation issues. I'm guessing there won't be.
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Old 05-16-2013, 03:01 PM   #20
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Quote:
Originally Posted by skepace View Post
Sounds great! I thought it would help when racking it. Anyone ever racked thru the bev out tube?
That's how I rack my beer to the keg. Not an issue for me. But then I've never tried it any other way.

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