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Old 04-11-2013, 03:05 PM   #31
caligula455
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Nov 2012
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Quote:
Originally Posted by bigpapakielbasa View Post
Caligula, how hard was this to draw through the side wall of your pot? I tried this yesterday on my keggle and ended up crushing the end washers and bending the bolt before the copper fitting would draw through. The copper fitting actually started to crush on the 3/4" end I was wrenching on.
Mine drew through pretty easily, someone that drew it through a keg wall would have to comment, but it shouldn't be crushing anything.

Couple thoughts on potential problems:
  • Is the copper fitting evenly sloped like the one in the picture or is it more of a steped shape. the more cone-like the better.
  • Is the outer pipe too small of a diameter and preventing the fitting from drawing through?
  • maybe try lubing the fitting to reduce the friction?
  • are you using steel bolts, i can't imagine your bending a 1/2" steel bolt unless something is pretty off.

Maybe post a pic and that will help diagnose the problem.

 
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Old 04-11-2013, 03:09 PM   #32
caligula455
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Nov 2012
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Quote:
Originally Posted by alien View Post
Nice going Caligula. Is that a tiny pinhole 3rd picture down? Might want to just heat that area up with a little bit of flux.
I saw that, but I think it was flux that didn't clean off. After more thorough cleaning I didn't see it anymore but i'll check it for a pinhole and reheat if it's still there. Don't want any crevices for gunk to hide in.

 
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Old 04-11-2013, 03:12 PM   #33
purplehaze
 
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I knew I must have missed something when I got home and measured it. I just grabbed the first 1/2"X3/4" coupling I found and of course it was the wrong one.

Thanks for the clarification bigpapakielbasa and caligula455.

 
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Old 04-13-2013, 06:22 PM   #34
purplehaze
 
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I either had a bad batch of PVC or the SS keggle is stronger than the cooking pot. The PVC would either shatter or deform before I could get the copper coupling to pull through.

I got this to work for me by inserting the 1" PVC into a 1 1/4" PVC. The added wall thickness and circumference worked perfectly with no failures. I would highly recommend eye protection.

Good info thanks

 
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Old 07-10-2013, 02:12 PM   #35
Lambo3
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Feb 2008
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I wish I had seen this before I spent $50 on stainless fittings... (and another $25 on a cobalt drill bit to bore the reducer out to 5/8)

I actually ran into a problem with the butt weld stainless reducer. It seems to almost be slightly larger in diameter (we're talking a few thousandths) than the actual couplings, so they don't draw through real tight.

I did a test solder on the leftover cutout from the keg. The coupling was snug, but I could almost push it all the way in by hand. There were slight gaps so the solder wicked through a bit uneven.

So, with that said I may try using the copper reducer if it is a bit smaller than the coupling diameter - I might argue that it is BETTER than the but weld reducer for this because the fittings will draw through nice and tight.

 
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Old 07-10-2013, 02:40 PM   #36
WileECoyote
 
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Great Idea caligula455, Im sure glad I saw this before I purchased the weld less fittings for my boil pot.

Cheers
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WileECoyote
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Things come and go. Good beer will live on for ever ! WileECoyote

 
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Old 07-12-2013, 03:29 PM   #37
Midnigh7
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May 2009
Minneapolis, MN, Minnesota
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I tried this, and it looked like it was fine. I shattered the PVC, so I substituted with a deep well socket which helped. When it was through the dimple wouldn't hold the coupler. I'm not sure if it didn't pull through straight, but one side was definitely dimpled out more then the other. I think I'm going to take my hole saw and make this spot now for a heating element.

 
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Old 07-16-2013, 05:27 PM   #38
caligula455
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Nov 2012
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Glad to hear people are experimenting with my method!

My dimple started to go a little crooked at first too, but I straightened it out before continuing. A larger bolt that holds the copper fitting more parallel might help keep things centered. I think even with the stainless parts you need to make sure everything stays straight an centered.

I think replacing the PVC piece with something more durable is a good idea. I didn't have any problems with mine, but I did wear safety glasses in case it broke and shattered.

I have all my fittings soldered on and the heating element installed now so I'll post some pics of how it all turned out.

I also have a nice looking but cheap hardware store way of grounding and covering the element wiring, stay tuned.

 
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Old 07-17-2013, 02:44 AM   #39
jerdes
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Jun 2011
San Antonio, tx
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I tried this method with a polarware economy kettle (fairly thin stainless) and it worked great. I used a 5/8" bolt instead of the 1/2", the fit was perfect on the copper fitting with no slop. I also sanded the pvc coupler to match the curve inside the kettle to help even the pressure on it. I plan to try this setup on one of my keggles soon and will report my results.

 
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Old 07-19-2013, 01:27 PM   #40
cank
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Nov 2012
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Midnigh7 View Post
I tried this, and it looked like it was fine. I shattered the PVC, so I substituted with a deep well socket which helped. When it was through the dimple wouldn't hold the coupler. I'm not sure if it didn't pull through straight, but one side was definitely dimpled out more then the other. I think I'm going to take my hole saw and make this spot now for a heating element.
Take a hammer and lightly tap the rim of the dimpled out part . It should close it enough to make it stay. I had to do something similar when I installed my 2" tri-clover ferrule for my heating element.

 
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