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Old 04-04-2013, 12:34 AM   #1
ukbrewhaha
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Mar 2013
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Currently have a problem with my new tap set-up, I basically have a leak on one of the joins.



From the pic (see crude diagram below if need be) I have a tank connector fitted through the pot, then a small length of copper (B) fitting this to the tap. The leak is where copper (B) meets with the tank connector.



I'm wondering whether there is a way to make this water tight (without soldering preferably). Note: I have tried using the spare nut from the top pic on the connector, with no success.

OR

At point (C), there is a small lip (see final pic below), I've read elsewhere that I can file this lip away and make copper (A) and (B) one solid length of copper.

Please advise me as to the best course of action.

Cheers for the help in advance!
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Old 04-04-2013, 01:10 AM   #2
Schumed
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Jb weld
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Old 04-04-2013, 01:34 AM   #3
ukbrewhaha
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cool is it safe to be in contact with the beer etc?
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Old 04-04-2013, 02:41 AM   #4
alien
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Trouble with JB weld is you'll never get it out again. (It's not food safe either, although so little of it will contact the beer that it's hardly worth worrying about.) You could just solder it for that matter.

I would use silicone jointing compound rated for use with potable water. Fernox LS-X is widely used by UK brewers for this purpose. I'm sure there is an equivalent in the USA but I don't know any brands.

 
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Old 04-04-2013, 11:43 AM   #5
Schumed
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I have all my weldless valves sealed with JB Weld to prevent any leaks ...no problems ...just seal the outside hole ...you should still be able to remove you ball valve you have threaded...

Although I have never removed mine..don't see a need as long as you follow good cleaning practices after brewing...I always run hot PBW through my equipment before putting away

I've been making good beer even starting to make award winning beer so I believe it's safe and fine
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Old 04-04-2013, 03:42 PM   #6
ukbrewhaha
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So it seems JB is the way to go, massively preferred to the option of filing down the connector and trying my luck with a single piece of copper through the middle?

I suppose I may well end up needing some welding/JB anyway right haha.
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Old 04-04-2013, 03:45 PM   #7
TahoeRy
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Buy a stainless steel coupler and take your kettle and coupler to a welder. For around $20-$40 they will weld the coupler to the kettle allowing you a much better way to handle your valve. It's what I did and it works great.

 
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Old 04-04-2013, 06:36 PM   #8
Schumed
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Quote:
Originally Posted by TahoeRy View Post
Buy a stainless steel coupler and take your kettle and coupler to a welder. For around $20-$40 they will weld the coupler to the kettle allowing you a much better way to handle your valve. It's what I did and it works great.
Agree with this...wishing I would of went this route
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Old 04-04-2013, 07:36 PM   #9
ukbrewhaha
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That's another thing, is the rubber washer an issue? Will it withstand the heat?
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Old 04-04-2013, 07:43 PM   #10
TahoeRy
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Yes, the washer should be ok. I use one as well between my coupler and ball valve. Never had any issues with the heat and my pots around 5 years old.

 
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