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Old 09-30-2007, 08:58 PM   #21
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Took an HBT poll. Barley Crusher came out on top. Bought it. Very happy with it. 80%+ eff. with factory crush setting. That's all she wrote.


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Old 09-30-2007, 09:04 PM   #22

Quote:
Originally Posted by dblvsn
Bought a Barley Crusher for 2 simple reasons.
1. Didn't have to build a hopper for it
B. Price...
Same here. Plus, I didn't have to make any adjustments to the BC for use with my household 3/8" drill. At the time I bought mine, they were running a special price on it, too. That sweetened the deal too much in the BCs favor!



 
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Old 10-01-2007, 02:17 PM   #23
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I've always got plenty of scrap wood around and the tools to work with it. Making the assumption (risky I know) that quality is directly related to price, I figured if the pirce was roughtly equal, then the mill without the hopper would be of even higher quality since the extra $ went into the mill and not the hopper. I went with the 3 roller Crankenstein and love it. Very easy to adjust.

 
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Old 10-01-2007, 03:27 PM   #24
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Instant gratification. I was just starting all-grain, found a little brew store in Amsterdam, picked it up. Corona mill, cost about 50 Euro. Wasn't a great deal, but gets the job done just fine. Makes me feel like a little more sweat goes into my brews

 
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Old 10-01-2007, 03:29 PM   #25
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Has anybody used both a BarleyCrusher and a basic Crankenstein model (one of the models that's around $120 or so, which is what I'm budgeting for this purchase)? I have the wood and just enough skillz to put together a hopper if need be, so the cost between the two of them would be about the same. Does the Crankenstein "win" in any regard other than looking to be more robust?
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Old 10-01-2007, 03:46 PM   #26
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Quote:
Originally Posted by the_bird
Has anybody used both a BarleyCrusher and a basic Crankenstein model (one of the models that's around $120 or so, which is what I'm budgeting for this purchase)? I have the wood and just enough skillz to put together a hopper if need be, so the cost between the two of them would be about the same. Does the Crankenstein "win" in any regard other than looking to be more robust?
Rollers on the Crank are thicker, so you have more surface area. That equates to less wear and tear in the long haul.

Looks like Crank's website is down.
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Old 10-01-2007, 03:56 PM   #27
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http://forum.northernbrewer.com/view...asc&highlight=
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Old 10-01-2007, 04:48 PM   #28
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Quote:
Originally Posted by the_bird
Has anybody used both a BarleyCrusher and a basic Crankenstein model (one of the models that's around $120 or so, which is what I'm budgeting for this purchase)? I have the wood and just enough skillz to put together a hopper if need be, so the cost between the two of them would be about the same. Does the Crankenstein "win" in any regard other than looking to be more robust?
I don't have a BC, but I can tell you that I have a crankandstein 3 roller, and you will need a good drill to run that machine if you choose it. I smoked a 5.2 amp corded B&D with a fine crush set on the second gap. And for a hopper, I considered the hopper a waste of money; I find a 5 gallon water jug works great. You can put it on a scale and measure your grains for extra convenience (if you have a scale with the range). I didn't care for either manufacturer's design.
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Old 10-01-2007, 04:56 PM   #29
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Quote:
Originally Posted by mr x
I don't have a BC, but I can tell you that I have a crankandstein 3 roller, and you will need a good drill to run that machine if you choose it. I smoked a 5.2 amp corded B&D with a fine crush set on the second gap. And for a hopper, I considered the hopper a waste of money; I find a 5 gallon water jug works great. You can put it on a scale and measure your grains for extra convenience (if you have a scale with the range). I didn't care for either manufacturer's design.
Thanks, that sounds like my corded drill. It sounds like from the link Cheese posted (thanks, bro!) that the Crankenstein, while a bit more robust, needs a bit more OOMPH to power it.
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Old 10-01-2007, 04:57 PM   #30
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I have the cheapest Crankandstein that is still adjustable. I'll say that this might be an isolated case, but I found that the bore for the bearings wasn't made perfectly perpendicular to the side plate (or maybe the bottom edges of the end plates are not squarely cut). The reason I suspect this is when I mounted to an absolutely flat base, the rollers got really tight. When you bow the base by pressing on the side, the rollers spun free. I triple checked that it was indeed a flat surface and it was. I basically had to shim the side plates of the mill to make it spin free. Not so great.


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