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Old 04-01-2013, 04:47 PM   #11
inda_bebe
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i finally decided to go 240v w/ a 5500w element. now i have to research to see if i can get the confidence to do this myself.

i will be ordering a:

PID controller
temp reader
40a ssr
duel rocker switch
a cheap ebay pump
5500w element
1a fuse holder
240v GFCI outlets/plugs

anything else i might need?
parts or diagrams would be helpful

trying to make it similar to this:

http://www.highgravitybrew.com/produ...l-306p3986.htm

i see that there is some kind of rotary switch to control the power, is this recommended?


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Old 04-01-2013, 05:05 PM   #12
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When I have read the description of that highgravitybrew unit, I get the impression that the dial controls power output to the element whether or not you are using the PID to maintain temp. If I am correct, wouldn't different output settings on the dial require the PID to have different settings. E.g., wouldn't autotuning the PID with dial at 25% yield very different results than autotuning with the dial at 100%? An alternative design would bypass the PID when using the dial, and bypass the dial when using the PID. In any case, setting the dial at the same place every time you use the PID would solve this problem, although I don't know how easy it is to do that other than at 100%.

Personally, with a PID that supports manual mode I really see limited benefit to the dial, but some certainly prefer the analog user interface for the boil, and that's fine.


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Old 04-01-2013, 05:43 PM   #13
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Quote:
Originally Posted by jeffmeh View Post
When I have read the description of that highgravitybrew unit, I get the impression that the dial controls power output to the element whether or not you are using the PID to maintain temp. If I am correct, wouldn't different output settings on the dial require the PID to have different settings. E.g., wouldn't autotuning the PID with dial at 25% yield very different results than autotuning with the dial at 100%? An alternative design would bypass the PID when using the dial, and bypass the dial when using the PID. In any case, setting the dial at the same place every time you use the PID would solve this problem, although I don't know how easy it is to do that other than at 100%.

Personally, with a PID that supports manual mode I really see limited benefit to the dial, but some certainly prefer the analog user interface for the boil, and that's fine.
I get waht your saying, but after several talks with the peeps at High Gravity, it really is just the fact that they like the analog control. Run the PID at 100% output, dial in your boil, and it really is only for the boil, with the knob.

Sure you can do that with a PID that supports manual mode, but this will keep your PID from switching, and should increase the lifespan of your parts.

But in the end, it just comes down to what HG likes and wants to build/offer. No one way is better than the other, but YMMV!

Cheers

Tim
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Old 04-01-2013, 06:09 PM   #14
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I am actually more concerned about keeping the dial at the same position when using the PID in PID mode (not manual), but as I said, if you keep the dial at max during this every time it should not be an issue. I still consider a superior design to be something like a 3-way switch that enables either the PID or the dial to fire the element, but never both.
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Old 04-01-2013, 06:26 PM   #15
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i just found out that i dont have a 240v outlet in my garage and dont want to do a conversion. so im just going to keep it as simple as possible. im going to stick w/ a 120v maybe even dual element
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Old 04-01-2013, 06:33 PM   #16
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it will cost me $400 to run a 30amp 240 servive to my garage, was in the same boat as you
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Old 04-02-2013, 03:45 AM   #17
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Default help w/ panel wiring

So I decided to use (2) 2000w 120v elements wired to a PID and 1 40a SSR. I'm no electrician but I want a plan that is so simple that even I can put it together. Heres an example how simple I need to build this thing.

http://www.homebrewtalk.com/f170/ste...roller-379938/

I want include another switch and outlet for a 12v pump. Can someone please help?
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Old 04-02-2013, 10:32 AM   #18
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Are you confident that you have the power supply in the garage to handle that load? Each element is pulling 16amps, so unless you plan to only use one element at a time (then why bother putting in two?), or you have a 40 amp circuit, or you have two 20 amp circuits that aren't on the same breaker... you can't do it safely. The chances of you having a 40 amp circuit to your garage is pretty slim, and I can't say I've ever seen a garage with two dedicated circuits unless it was set up to be a shop.

And then you want to throw in a 12v pump, so add a transformer and power-limited wiring... why bother?
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Old 04-02-2013, 01:33 PM   #19
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Quote:
Originally Posted by BadNewsBrewery View Post
Are you confident that you have the power supply in the garage to handle that load? Each element is pulling 16amps, so unless you plan to only use one element at a time (then why bother putting in two?), or you have a 40 amp circuit, or you have two 20 amp circuits that aren't on the same breaker... you can't do it safely. The chances of you having a 40 amp circuit to your garage is pretty slim, and I can't say I've ever seen a garage with two dedicated circuits unless it was set up to be a shop.

And then you want to throw in a 12v pump, so add a transformer and power-limited wiring... why bother?
Thanks for the heads up, back to more research
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Old 04-02-2013, 05:46 PM   #20
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If you run (2) 120V 1500W elements, and used a 110V chugger pump, you can run this all on a 30A circuit.

Otherwise, you can get an electrician to come in and install whatever circuit you need.


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