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Old 03-25-2013, 01:15 AM   #1
Thunder_Chicken
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I am getting a do-over kit from NB tomorrow to replace a 1-gallon NB White House Honey Ale kit that was shipped with the wrong grains. I've made some similar partial mash ales on my own and want to experiment with the mesh temperatures to see if I can polish up this brew.

I want to dry out some of the malt sweetness, so I was planning to mash ~148F for a full hour. I was also reading that chill haze can be controlled by some degree by a protease rest in the 113-131F range.

I assume that the enzymes denature, so the mash schedule should have the rests increasing with temperature - start at 120 for 30 minutes, then increase to 148 and continue for a full hour. Is this about right?

 
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Old 03-25-2013, 01:36 AM   #2
BigEd
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Try using a higher temperature, ~128/130F, 120F is unnecessarily low for modern malts. Modern malting processes leave very little unmodified phytin which is the primary reason for a rest @ 118/120F. By starting at the higher temp you will lessen the chance of "overdoing" it and possibly running into those "detrimental" effects that the don't-do-a-protein-rest contingent warns about.

 
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Old 03-25-2013, 12:25 PM   #3
Thunder_Chicken
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What are the "detrimental" effects?

 
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Old 03-25-2013, 02:03 PM   #4
EyePeeA
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Know the diastatic power (measured in Lintner) of each mashing grain before proceeding. Those under 35 Lintner are not considered to be self-converting. Those well above this number self-convert quite fast.

Examples:

American 2-row = 140 Lintner
Pearl Malt = 60 Lintner
Munich 20L Malt = 20 Lintner
Flaked Wheat = 0 Lintner

The higher the number, the faster starch conversion occurs if held at the appropriate temperatures. This info will help you when designing a mash schedule with your intended recipe.

...as will these links:

http://byo.com/all-grain-brewing/ite...f-step-mashing

http://beersmith.com/blog/2010/01/04...ing-your-beer/

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Old 03-25-2013, 05:11 PM   #5
Thunder_Chicken
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Quote:
Originally Posted by EyePeeA View Post
Know the diastatic power (measured in Lintner) of each mashing grain before proceeding.
That is a big help - I was actually looking at a recipe using a lot of Munich which would have been a disaster without knowing this. Thanks!

 
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Old 03-25-2013, 05:19 PM   #6
EyePeeA
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Regular Munich, which is 10 Lovibond, is also 70 Lintner. Don't get Lovibond and Lintner confused. They have the same abbreviations (L).

The slightly darker Munich is 20 Lovibond and 25 Lintner.

 
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Old 03-26-2013, 12:02 AM   #7
Thunder_Chicken
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Quote:
Originally Posted by EyePeeA View Post
Don't get Lovibond and Lintner confused. They have the same abbreviations (L).
So, for example, Crystal 120L Malt - is this 120 Linter?

I wish my library had some brewing texts - I need a study guide Just when I find a nice hobby to take me away from the technicalities of my engineering day job...figures.

 
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Old 03-26-2013, 12:03 AM   #8
EyePeeA
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NOooooooooooooooo

C-120 is 120 Lovibond - 0 Lintner

Lovibond is a measurement of color. It's completely separate from Lintner with no affiliation.

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Old 03-26-2013, 12:04 AM   #9
CUBrewing
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No that is 120 lovibond

 
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Old 03-26-2013, 12:07 AM   #10
Thunder_Chicken
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Quote:
Originally Posted by EyePeeA View Post
NOooooooooooooooo

C-120 is 120 Lovibond - 0 Lintner

Lovibond is a measurement of color. It's completely separate from Lintner with no affiliation.
Except for the common "L". This sounds like something you just happen to know based on accidentally brewing a SMaSH with C-120.

 
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