Auberins pushbutton switches - Home Brew Forums

Register Now!
Home Brew Forums > Home Brewing Beer > Electric Brewing > Auberins pushbutton switches

Reply
 
Thread Tools
Old 03-17-2013, 04:09 PM   #1
lukez
Recipes 
 
Jan 2013
Posts: 56


So I just realized I ordered the SW11 (1 NO 1 NC) switches instead of the SW1 (2 NO) from auberins and PJ uses the SW1 in his diagrams.
I tried looking up what the difference is and have a hard time understanding. I'm guessing I have to try and exchange these or can I use the 1NO 1NC that I have?
I'm doing this build here: http://www.homebrewtalk.com/f170/yet...-build-282235/

 
Reply With Quote
Old 03-17-2013, 04:32 PM   #2
P-J
HBT_LIFETIMESUPPORTER.png
Recipes 
 
Mar 2010
Charlotte, NC
Posts: 3,336
Liked 301 Times on 235 Posts


The main power switch is the only one in that wiring plan that needs to have 2 N/O modules in it. You can buy a module if need be.

If you already purchased the 240V coil contactor you are stuck with the original diagramed plan.

 
Reply With Quote
Old 03-17-2013, 04:33 PM   #3
AllanMar
Recipes 
 
Jun 2008
Canada
Posts: 190
Liked 6 Times on 6 Posts


Looks like that diagram doesn't use the 2nd NO contact for anything. You should be fine, just don't wire anything to the NC contact.

EDIT: Didn't see PJ's reply and missed the power switch.
You could always just only switch 1 leg of the power for the contactor?

 
Reply With Quote
Old 03-18-2013, 12:11 AM   #4
lukez
Recipes 
 
Jan 2013
Posts: 56

It's ok I rather do it the right way, I'll try to get module exchanged worst case I'll order another pushbutton oh well price you pay for exploring new territories!
Thanks guys

 
Reply With Quote
Old 03-18-2013, 12:31 AM   #5
mattd2
Recipes 
 
Sep 2009
Papamoa, New Zealand
Posts: 3,732
Liked 309 Times on 246 Posts


Quote:
Originally Posted by P-J View Post
The main power switch is the only one in that wiring plan that needs to have 2 N/O modules in it. You can buy a module if need be.

If you already purchased the 240V coil contactor you are stuck with the original diagramed plan.
Why does the main power need 2 NO? why switch both hots if it is only for control of the main power contactor (which does need to switch both hots).
I see only one switch, as wire in the schematic in the 1st post, as needing 2NO - the alarm so that the button can be illuminated to show the alarm is "active".
This could be done with 1 NO if the switch is moved to switch the common into the PID (13).

 
Reply With Quote
Old 03-18-2013, 12:01 PM   #6
BadNewsBrewery
 
BadNewsBrewery's Avatar
Recipes 
 
Oct 2012
Severn, MD
Posts: 1,244
Liked 129 Times on 103 Posts


If the only thing you have that needs 2NO is the main power switch, I'd just switch one of the hot legs. Your SSR does it to control the element, why not have your main power switch do it? One hot leg goes through the switch and then to the coil, the other hot leg goes directly to the coil. You've got a functional power switch and you don't need to contact Auber and get an exchange / buy another NO contact.
__________________
Building a Bad News Brewery - eHERMS

2014 - 70gal
2015 - 72gal

 
Reply With Quote
Old 03-18-2013, 12:43 PM   #7
voltin
Beholden to the Yeast
HBT_LIFETIMESUPPORTER.png
 
voltin's Avatar
Recipes 
 
Jul 2011
Lubbock, TX
Posts: 416
Liked 15 Times on 12 Posts


As mattd2 said, you could just wire one of the hot legs to the coil (in this case the black wire would probably be best) and then switch the other hot leg on the main power switch and you would be fine.

The only button that is going to be an issue is the alarm button. Because the circuit that is switched when you close the alarm button is not completed until the PID closes the relay when an alarm condition is reached, which means the button will not illuminate until the alarm is triggered.

I would recommend just buying another contact block for that switch and wire up the rest of the switches that you have. If you need an updated wiring diagram I can help.
__________________
My eBIAB Build | Texas Blues and Brews Festival

On Deck: Motor Oil Barleywine, Cider Trials, Vanilla Cream Ale, California Blonde
Primary: Cotton Blossom Traditional Mead, 1744 Porter (Ale-ian Society Club Brew), Old Ale
Secondary: Peach Wine, Cranberry Cider
Kegged: Nothing :(
On Tap: Nothing :(
Bottled: Yup still nothing...

 
Reply With Quote
Old 03-18-2013, 08:51 PM   #8
mattd2
Recipes 
 
Sep 2009
Papamoa, New Zealand
Posts: 3,732
Liked 309 Times on 246 Posts


Quote:
Originally Posted by voltin View Post
As mattd2 said, you could just wire one of the hot legs to the coil (in this case the black wire would probably be best) and then switch the other hot leg on the main power switch and you would be fine.

The only button that is going to be an issue is the alarm button. Because the circuit that is switched when you close the alarm button is not completed until the PID closes the relay when an alarm condition is reached, which means the button will not illuminate until the alarm is triggered.

I would recommend just buying another contact block for that switch and wire up the rest of the switches that you have. If you need an updated wiring diagram I can help.
Or move the alarm switch so that it provides power to the common alarm post (13) on the PID. Then a single NO block can be used to both light the illumination and provide power to the alarm.

 
Reply With Quote
Old 03-19-2013, 12:45 AM   #9
lukez
Recipes 
 
Jan 2013
Posts: 56

so i can get away with using these switches??? volt or someone, would you be able to update the diagram to reflect these changes to clear it up for me?

 
Reply With Quote
Old 03-19-2013, 02:07 AM   #10
voltin
Beholden to the Yeast
HBT_LIFETIMESUPPORTER.png
 
voltin's Avatar
Recipes 
 
Jul 2011
Lubbock, TX
Posts: 416
Liked 15 Times on 12 Posts


This diagram should be correct:

__________________
My eBIAB Build | Texas Blues and Brews Festival

On Deck: Motor Oil Barleywine, Cider Trials, Vanilla Cream Ale, California Blonde
Primary: Cotton Blossom Traditional Mead, 1744 Porter (Ale-ian Society Club Brew), Old Ale
Secondary: Peach Wine, Cranberry Cider
Kegged: Nothing :(
On Tap: Nothing :(
Bottled: Yup still nothing...

 
Reply With Quote
Reply
Thread Tools


Similar Threads
Thread Thread Starter Forum Replies Last Post
North Carolina Auberins 2352 PID Reelale For Sale 4 03-01-2013 07:21 PM
Auberins 40 amp SSR TheBiGZ Electric Brewing 4 02-04-2013 02:00 PM
Auberins PID RDWHAHB Meat Smoking, Curing and Sausage Making 9 02-03-2012 06:58 PM
PID cheaper than Auberins brewhokie Electric Brewing 5 01-21-2012 01:56 PM
NEW 40A Auberins SSR cyberbackpacker For Sale 8 12-02-2009 01:17 AM


Forum Jump