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Old 03-18-2013, 08:23 PM   #21
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So to clarify... You have already added dry hops in primary?
You are going to rack to secondary and THEN cold crash?

If some of the hop material makes it into secondary, that is ok. It will eventually drop to bottom of fermenter.


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Old 03-18-2013, 10:37 PM   #22
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Originally Posted by i_heart_beer View Post
Edit( sent to early )

Does it matter if any hop material gets into the secondary? Will it sink if it does? This is my first time dry hopping an 2nd time cold crashing. Is there a good/easy way to do this?
Cold crash in the primary.


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Old 03-18-2013, 10:41 PM   #23
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Quote:
Originally Posted by brewkinger
So to clarify... You have already added dry hops in primary?
You are going to rack to secondary and THEN cold crash?

If some of the hop material makes it into secondary, that is ok. It will eventually drop to bottom of fermenter.
Yes.

So rack it as usual and whatever makes it into secondary (hop material) should sink after a few days?
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Old 03-18-2013, 10:49 PM   #24
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Paulgs3

Cold crash in the primary.
And I just saw this ^^

My primary is a bucket, that shouldn't matter though, right? My secondary would be a plastic bottle. Why cold crash in the primary vs. secondary? Isn't better to get the beer off of the trub for cold crashing? And if I cold crash in the primary, should I just start to cold crash during my dry hop period to save some time?
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Old 03-19-2013, 10:07 AM   #25
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Quote:
Originally Posted by i_heart_beer View Post
And I just saw this ^^

My primary is a bucket, that shouldn't matter though, right? My secondary would be a plastic bottle. Why cold crash in the primary vs. secondary? Isn't better to get the beer off of the trub for cold crashing? And if I cold crash in the primary, should I just start to cold crash during my dry hop period to save some time?
Doesn't matter. I dryhop and cold crash in the same carboy/bucket all the time. I do it for simplicity, ease, less work, and less chance of something going wrong like oxidation/contamination. Besides cold crashing as you already know, will pack that trub down nicely.

To me, its an extra step that isn't needed. And I'm lazy.

As far as dry hopping and cold crashing at the same time, I have also done this and it works. However I have noticed better results with dry hopping at warmer temperatures as it resulted in better aroma.
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Old 03-19-2013, 10:20 AM   #26
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I haven't used the gelatin trick but I do use whirfloc and cold crash then keg my beers. I get remarkable clarity but never quite 'crystal' clear.

How much mixing do y'all gelatinizers do after the addition?
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Old 03-19-2013, 12:07 PM   #27
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How much mixing do y'all gelatinizers do after the addition?
None.

I just remove the foil cap from the refrigerated carboy, pour in the measuring cup of gelatin solution, and put the foil cap back on.
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Old 03-19-2013, 08:04 PM   #28
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None.

I just remove the foil cap from the refrigerated carboy, pour in the measuring cup of gelatin solution, and put the foil cap back on.
So how does that work if you don't mix? Gelatin, as a macro-molecule, diffuses slowly, and at the cold crash stage of the game, convection currents won't be relevant for mixing. I'd guess that much of your beer wouldn't be exposed to the gelatin.

I bring this up out of general curiosity and interest and because my kegged beers clear very nicely with just whirfloc and cold crashing.

Anyone split a batch into gelatin and non-gelatin for comparison?
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Old 03-20-2013, 12:15 AM   #29
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If it matters, the gelatin solution is still piping hot when I pour it in. Maybe that generates some convection? I keg-carbonate, so I don't care about killing yeast at that stage of the game.

At any rate, my beers come out super-clear. Maybe the gelatin makes a difference, maybe it doesn't, but it's cheap and easy, so I'm going to keep doing it.


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