Ok to hydrate yeast the night before? - Page 2 - Home Brew Forums

Register Now!
Home Brew Forums > Home Brewing Beer > Beginners Beer Brewing Forum > Ok to hydrate yeast the night before?

Reply
 
Thread Tools
Old 03-09-2013, 03:00 AM   #11
andy6026
Recipes 
 
Jan 2013
Posts: 976
Liked 167 Times on 130 Posts


Quote:
Originally Posted by CTR08 View Post
I would think 20 mins should be okay. There are plenty of posters who claim not to rehydrate at all with not adverse effects...
Pitching it dry has crossed my mind too, but seeing that this is only my second batch I want to get the full experience still. My fermenting temperature will also be on the cool side (around 60F), so hydrating it will likely help get the gurgling going in good time.

So, thanks for advising not to rehydrate tonight. I'll find a way to do it tomorrow, I'm sure.

Cheers!

 
Reply With Quote
Old 03-09-2013, 03:02 AM   #12
Puddlethumper
HBT_SUPPORTER.png
 
Puddlethumper's Avatar
Recipes 
 
Feb 2013
San Joaquin Valley, California
Posts: 1,893
Liked 287 Times on 225 Posts


Quote:
Originally Posted by andy6026 View Post
it takes at least 30-40 mins to prep the yeast, but I'm not sure if his instructions are out of date? What's the fastest way to effectively hydrate yeast?
Its really not that big of a deal. While your boil is going and you're standing around waiting for time to pitch that last ounce of hops go into the kitchen and put a cup of water in a saucepan and set the burner so it will come to a boil. Every once in a while, between beers, wander back into the kitchen to check on the water. Once it is boiling it is sterile. Cover, turn the heat off and forget it for a while.

Go have another beer. Once you have started your wort chiller (and you are waiting for the temp to drop) go check the temperature of that water on the stove. (Use a sanitized thermometer). Once it drops to 90-100F (if using Safale yeast) pour about 4 oz. into a sanitized measuring cup and sprinkle the yeast into it. Swirl it around and go check on your cooling wort.

By the time your wort is ready for the yeast the yeast will be ready for the wort. Pitch the yeast, put the airlock into the fermenter, move the fermenter to wherever its going to live for a couple weeks and go have another beer! Nothing to it.
__________________
--------

All good beers have 4 things in common:

1. A good recipe closely followed
2. Good ingredients
3. Good sanitation
4. Excellent temperature control


------

 
Reply With Quote
Old 03-09-2013, 03:08 AM   #13
andy6026
Recipes 
 
Jan 2013
Posts: 976
Liked 167 Times on 130 Posts


Quote:
Originally Posted by Puddlethumper View Post
Its really not that big of a deal. While your boil is going and you're standing around waiting for time to pitch that last ounce of hops go into the kitchen and put a cup of water in a saucepan and set the burner so it will come to a boil. Every once in a while, between beers, wander back into the kitchen to check on the water. Once it is boiling it is sterile. Cover, turn the heat off and forget it for a while.

Go have another beer. Once you have started your wort chiller (and you are waiting for the temp to drop) go check the temperature of that water on the stove. (Use a sanitized thermometer). Once it drops to 90-100F (if using Safale yeast) pour about 4 oz. into a sanitized measuring cup and sprinkle the yeast into it. Swirl it around and go check on your cooling wort.

By the time your wort is ready for the yeast the yeast will be ready for the wort. Pitch the yeast, put the airlock into the fermenter, move the fermenter to wherever its going to live for a couple weeks and go have another beer! Nothing to it.
That's the 'can-do' attitude I needed to move tomorrow's brew day along. The weatherman's promising glory, and I can't think of anything better I want to do than be out there sipping and stirring. Cheers!

 
Reply With Quote
Old 03-09-2013, 03:13 AM   #14
Puddlethumper
HBT_SUPPORTER.png
 
Puddlethumper's Avatar
Recipes 
 
Feb 2013
San Joaquin Valley, California
Posts: 1,893
Liked 287 Times on 225 Posts


Quote:
Originally Posted by andy6026 View Post
Pitching it dry has crossed my mind too,

Cheers!
Oh, and btw, pitching it dry isn't all that bad of an idea. Have done that with Munton & Fissons with excellent results. There's a whole bunch of folks who've had good results with pitching Safale the same way. Don't know ahout Nottingham, Windsor, etc.
__________________
--------

All good beers have 4 things in common:

1. A good recipe closely followed
2. Good ingredients
3. Good sanitation
4. Excellent temperature control


------

 
Reply With Quote
Old 03-09-2013, 03:17 AM   #15
Puddlethumper
HBT_SUPPORTER.png
 
Puddlethumper's Avatar
Recipes 
 
Feb 2013
San Joaquin Valley, California
Posts: 1,893
Liked 287 Times on 225 Posts


Quote:
Originally Posted by andy6026 View Post
That's the 'can-do' attitude I needed to move tomorrow's brew day along. The weatherman's promising glory, and I can't think of anything better I want to do than be out there sipping and stirring. Cheers!
I hope you have a great day! Cheers!
__________________
--------

All good beers have 4 things in common:

1. A good recipe closely followed
2. Good ingredients
3. Good sanitation
4. Excellent temperature control


------

 
Reply With Quote
Old 03-09-2013, 03:18 AM   #16
andy6026
Recipes 
 
Jan 2013
Posts: 976
Liked 167 Times on 130 Posts


you too, thanks for the advice!

 
Reply With Quote
Old 03-09-2013, 04:24 AM   #17
BigFloyd
 
BigFloyd's Avatar
Recipes 
 
Dec 2012
Tyler, Texas
Posts: 5,268
Liked 759 Times on 652 Posts


It's worth the effort to rehydrate dry yeast. The studies on this topic show that a much higher percentage of cells survive intro to the wort vs. sprinkling it dry. Is it absolutely needed? No. Is it a much better brewing practice? Heck yeah.

If you take the extra time to get your wort down to a better pitch temp (65*F), you'll have the time it takes to finish rehydrating yeast.

Before you even start your boil, put a full cup of filtered (not distilled) water in a Pyrex cup and zap it in the microwave for 7 minutes. That should boil it down to about 1/2 cup. Take that out of the microwave and cover it with a piece of foil that's been sprayed with Star-San. While you're doing the boil, it will be cooling to the desired temp of 100*F +/-5*.

After hooking up the chiller, check the water in the Pyrex with a sanitized thermometer. If it's 95-105*, start your rehydration process. After you've chilled, whirlpooled and let the wort settle 10-15 min, the only thing left is to adjust the temp of the yeast slurry (by adding small portions of wort and letting it sit a few, repeat until it's within 10* of the wort) and pitch away.

 
Reply With Quote
Old 03-09-2013, 04:36 AM   #18
helibrewer
HBT_SUPPORTER.png
 
helibrewer's Avatar
Recipes 
 
Nov 2011
Santa Rosa, CA
Posts: 3,709
Liked 299 Times on 254 Posts


You don't want to do the rehydration the night before. The yeast should only be without food for 20-30 minutes, otherwise they begin to starve and begin the process of going back into dormancy.
__________________
Something is always fermenting....
"It's Bahl Hornin'"

Primary:
Brite Tank/Lagering:
Kegged: Sour Saison, Pale Ale, Aggie Ale, Firestone DBA, De Koninck Blonde
Bottled: Belgian Quad (Grand Reserve), Derangement (Belgian Dark Strong)
On Deck: Pliny the Younger

 
Reply With Quote
Old 03-09-2013, 04:42 AM   #19
fizgig
HBT_SUPPORTER.png
 
fizgig's Avatar
Recipes 
 
Feb 2013
Royal Oak, MI
Posts: 468
Liked 46 Times on 37 Posts


here's an article I read:

Dr. Clayton Cone suggests the following:
Let me give you some facts regarding rehydration and you can decide for yourself where you want to Compromise.
Every strain of yeast has its own optimum rehydration temperature. All of them range between 95 F to 105F. Most of them closer to 105F. The dried yeast cell wall is fragile and it is the first few minutes (possibly seconds) of rehydration that the warm temperature is critical while it is reconstituting its cell wall structure. As you drop the initial temperature of the water from 95 to 85 or 75 or 65F the yeast leached out more and more of its insides damaging the each cell.
The yeast viability also drops proportionally. At 95 – 105 F, there is 100% recovery of the viable dry yeast. At 60F, there can be as much as 60% dead cells. The water should be tap water with the normal amount of hardness present. The hardness is essential for good recovery. 250 -500 ppm hardness is ideal. This means that deionized or distilled water should not be used. Ideally, the warm rehydration water should contain about 0.5 – 1.0% yeast extract.
For the initial few minutes (perhaps seconds) of rehydration, the yeast cell wall cannot differentiate what passes through the wall. Toxic materials like sprays, hops, SO2 and sugars in high levels, that the yeast normally can selectively keep from passing through its cell wall rush right in and seriously damage the cells. The moment that the cell wall is properly reconstituted, the yeast can then regulate what goes in and out of the cell. That is why we hesitate to recommend rehydration in wort or must. Very dilute wort seems to be OK.
How do many beer and wine makers have successful fermentations when they ignore all the above? I believe that it is just a numbers game. Each gram of Active Dry Yeast contains about 20 billion live yeast cells. If you slightly damage the cells, they have a remarkable ability to recover in the rich wort. If you kill 60% of the cell you still have 8 billion cells per gram that can go on to do the job at a slower rate.

BigFloyd Likes This 
Reply With Quote
Old 03-09-2013, 02:01 PM   #20
BigFloyd
 
BigFloyd's Avatar
Recipes 
 
Dec 2012
Tyler, Texas
Posts: 5,268
Liked 759 Times on 652 Posts


Quote:
Originally Posted by fizgig View Post
here's an article I read:

Dr. Clayton Cone suggests the following:
Let me give you some facts regarding rehydration and you can decide for yourself where you want to Compromise.
Every strain of yeast has its own optimum rehydration temperature. All of them range between 95 F to 105F. Most of them closer to 105F. The dried yeast cell wall is fragile and it is the first few minutes (possibly seconds) of rehydration that the warm temperature is critical while it is reconstituting its cell wall structure. As you drop the initial temperature of the water from 95 to 85 or 75 or 65F the yeast leached out more and more of its insides damaging the each cell.
The yeast viability also drops proportionally. At 95 105 F, there is 100% recovery of the viable dry yeast. At 60F, there can be as much as 60% dead cells. The water should be tap water with the normal amount of hardness present. The hardness is essential for good recovery. 250 -500 ppm hardness is ideal. This means that deionized or distilled water should not be used. Ideally, the warm rehydration water should contain about 0.5 1.0% yeast extract.
For the initial few minutes (perhaps seconds) of rehydration, the yeast cell wall cannot differentiate what passes through the wall. Toxic materials like sprays, hops, SO2 and sugars in high levels, that the yeast normally can selectively keep from passing through its cell wall rush right in and seriously damage the cells. The moment that the cell wall is properly reconstituted, the yeast can then regulate what goes in and out of the cell. That is why we hesitate to recommend rehydration in wort or must. Very dilute wort seems to be OK.
How do many beer and wine makers have successful fermentations when they ignore all the above? I believe that it is just a numbers game. Each gram of Active Dry Yeast contains about 20 billion live yeast cells. If you slightly damage the cells, they have a remarkable ability to recover in the rich wort. If you kill 60% of the cell you still have 8 billion cells per gram that can go on to do the job at a slower rate.
+1. That article is a good explanation of the rationale behind this.

I used to think of it as simply pitching the little beasts into a nice bucket of their favorite food, but apparently wort isn't the friendliest of environments for unreconstituted dry yeast cells due to lower pH and the other factors listed by the good doctor.

I want to give the yeast every bit of help that I can provide, so I rehydrate.

 
Reply With Quote
Reply
Thread Tools


Similar Threads
Thread Thread Starter Forum Replies Last Post
Nottingham yeast - hydrate or not ? BOBTHEukBREWER All Grain & Partial Mash Brewing 138 10-23-2012 07:03 PM
Re-hydrate the yeast or sprinkle it on? WortCarboy Beginners Beer Brewing Forum 43 09-18-2011 04:22 PM
Should I re-hydrate my yeast? gcdowd Beginners Beer Brewing Forum 30 06-03-2011 12:33 PM
Liquid yeast fermentation failed. Just ordered dry yeast; should I re-hydrate? krantze Beginners Beer Brewing Forum 7 01-26-2011 05:57 AM
Do you hydrate dry yeast? JeffNYC Recipes/Ingredients 21 10-02-2007 03:22 PM


Forum Jump