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Home Brew Forums > Home Brewing Beer > DIY Projects > Kegerators and Keezers > Kitchen Friendly Keezer Build (GE 7.0 Model # FCM7SUWW)
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Old 03-09-2013, 01:53 AM   #1
sazerac6
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Default Kitchen Friendly Keezer Build (GE 7.0 Model # FCM7SUWW)

I did a bit of research on HBT when I was designing my keezer build. So here is my contribution back to the community.

There is no such thing as a basement in my house, so I had to improvise and get SWMBO on board. It was either the garage or the kitchen. Kitchen won because I pitched a kitchen-friendly design.

I have a 4 keg setup. The CO2 is inside on the hump. The kegs were tight to fit, but I found once it cooled off, I could get the 4 kegs in with less struggle. I would pay attention to the shanks and make sure that you don’t have too much extra hanging off inside. I have 5 1/8” and I found that it makes it hard to get the front kegs out.

I used a 2x8 collar, and that allows for a potential keg on the hump, but probably for only cold crashing or chilling. The QDs probably won’t allow the lid to close tightly.

I got a STC-1000 temp controller from ebay, and just hung the probe in the keezer. I was having trouble with temp control, so I added a thermowell. The sensor on the STC-1000 isn’t submersible (as far a I know). I took a gallon jug and filled it with water. Inserted a 12” pipe nipple and capped the end. Put the probe in the pipe and then you have a nice stable temp. (no pics of the thermowell are in the album, but will add them later)

I used oak veneer for the finishing touches. I glued it directly to the freezer with liquid nails. Problem was that the freezer isn’t square. So I had to use some duct tape to make sure that the liquid nails adhered properly. I stained and poly’ed the wood to match the existing cabinetry. I also put press tile on the cover that I put over the lid.

Well enough of the explanations……here is the link to the photos. Feel free to PM with any questions.
https://plus.google.com/photos/10721...CJGRy6_dv86fPg


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Old 03-09-2013, 02:04 AM   #2
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The veneer looks great

I would probably also use a thermowell on an STC-1000 probe rather than immerse it. Must be some kind of thermoplastic but I don't know what.

No drip tray?


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Old 03-09-2013, 02:09 AM   #3
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Very cool. What? No drip tray? How do you manage that?
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Old 03-09-2013, 02:27 AM   #4
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Haha, I actually have one, but it's only out when needed. I added this pic to the album. This is the drip tray I got http://www.foodservicewarehouse.com/.../p1456537.aspx
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Old 03-09-2013, 03:23 AM   #5
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Ok. That explains it. Was wondering how you dealt with that. Nice setup.

We don't have space inside so I have to go the garage to refill.
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Old 03-09-2013, 03:37 AM   #6
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You guys are aware that the probe on the STC 1000 is made for aquariums, right?

Love the tap labels.
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Old 03-09-2013, 04:09 AM   #7
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Quote:
Originally Posted by pabloj13 View Post
You guys are aware that the probe on the STC 1000 is made for aquariums, right?
So what does that tell us? Not whether it stands up to the required temps.
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Old 03-09-2013, 04:25 AM   #8
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Quote:
Originally Posted by alien View Post
So what does that tell us? Not whether it stands up to the required temps.
So you think a sensor with the range of -50C to ~99C can't stand up to keezer temps? Its not like he's submerging it in liquid nitrogen...
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Old 03-09-2013, 07:29 AM   #9
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Quote:
Originally Posted by alien

So what does that tell us? Not whether it stands up to the required temps.
The sensor is submersible.
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Old 03-09-2013, 12:23 PM   #10
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Quote:
Originally Posted by sazerac6 View Post
I would pay attention to the shanks and make sure that you don’t have too much extra hanging off inside. I have 5 1/8” and I found that it makes it hard to get the front kegs out.
++to this. I used 2x 5 1/8" shanks in my initial build and they really get in the way when you try to put 4 kegs in. I used a 4 1/8" when I added my third tap and it is a little easier to work around. With a 1x6 collar and a piece of 1" foam insulation plus a sheet of hardboard backing, there is exactly 1" of exposed shank left after you add the beer nut so I believe it is possible to go all the way down to 3 1/8" but that would be pretty tight.

At a maximum 4 1/8" shanks should be used. If you're ordering from Keg Connection, they'll be happy to swap the default shanks in their kit (5 1/8") to any size you want if you call them.


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