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Old 03-07-2013, 11:30 PM   #11
alien
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Apr 2012
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Way too expensive! And shipping on top. For $19 I got 3x 40A Fotek's shipped.

Mr Natch, your idea will work fine with thermal compound on both surfaces. In fact the metal box itself might be enough of a heatsink.

 
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Old 03-08-2013, 01:14 PM   #12
Homercidal
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Quote:
Originally Posted by MrNatural View Post

Homercidal, am I reading right that you put heat sink compound on both sides of the plastic, between SSR and heat sink?
No, I cut an opening in the side of the box for the heatsink to fit into, with tabs of plastic so I could run screws through the tabs, into the SSR and thread into the heatsink. My heatsink was one of those cheap ones that come with the SSR and there was no way to mount the heatsink to the plastic and have it outside the box while the SSR was inside.

I thought I had a good solution until the heads of the screws sunk into the tabs a bit.

It's something I probably should have realized before I built it, but didn't. When I build my permanent control panel I'll do like Kal and use a large heatsink, no plastic required. I guess I was just in a hurry to test it out.

 
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Old 03-08-2013, 07:24 PM   #13
alien
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I've drilled holes in a big computer heatsink and screwed it on the back of an SSR, and mounted it so it stuck out the back of a plastic box. This worked because the back surface of the heatsink was slightly smaller than the back of the SSR.

 
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Old 03-15-2013, 08:07 PM   #14
mendesm
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US$ 13.34/each + shipping

 
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Old 03-15-2013, 08:50 PM   #15
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I would not rely on your heatsink just being in open air to properly cool an SSR that is carrying 23A. Those bastards get HOT.

I always strongly recommend a fan to blow air across the heatsink.
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Old 11-27-2013, 04:08 AM   #16
Bubba70
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Apr 2009
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WARNING!!!!

I used two Fotek 50 AMP SSR's for my HERMS with the heat sink on each individually with two computer fans blowing across them in my control box when I built mine. It worked perfectly for a year or so with bi-weekly brewing until the BK SSR began to sizzle and quickly start to arc inside the box on a brew day. I had to throw the breaker on the rig to shut it off and then blow out the flames. I would recommend you spend the extra money and buy a quality product and save yourself the subsequent time and money that I now have to put in to my system. If you decide to go the cheap way I would definitely put in thermal fuses mounted directly above the FOTEK's in case your not in the room when they blow or are too hammered to realize what's going on.

 
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