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Old 03-02-2013, 07:53 PM   #1
jethro55
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I did a yeast starter yesterday with dry pack of Danstar Belle Siason. Used 2 quarts of 1.04 wort.

The plan was to pitch it tomorrow. It has done fine so far and is slowing down, krausen dropping. But is still bubbling. Tomorrow would put it at about the 40 hour point.
Is this enough time? Or do I need to wait for complete clearing?

 
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Old 03-02-2013, 07:59 PM   #2
yeastside
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24 - 48 hours is usually ideal. It's best to pitch while the starter is actively fermenting. You should be golden!

 
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Old 03-02-2013, 08:07 PM   #3
duboman
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Quote:
Originally Posted by jethro55
I did a yeast starter yesterday with dry pack of Danstar Belle Siason. Used 2 quarts of 1.04 wort.

The plan was to pitch it tomorrow. It has done fine so far and is slowing down, krausen dropping. But is still bubbling. Tomorrow would put it at about the 40 hour point.
Is this enough time? Or do I need to wait for complete clearing?
FYI, it is not necessary to make a starter with dry yeast
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Old 03-02-2013, 08:49 PM   #4
jethro55
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Quote:
Originally Posted by yeastside View Post
24 - 48 hours is usually ideal. It's best to pitch while the starter is actively fermenting. You should be golden!
Thanks for the reply! This is my first starter....moving forward to the refined methods.....slowly but surely. The Beersmith does not list this one, but it does indicate that a starter is called for on just about every brew - else multiple packs for fermentation by the science.

I figure that it is a good way to farm the various yeasts for future use. And this article by the Brulosopher shows how to do that: http://www.homebrewtalk.com/entries/...-approach.html
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Old 03-02-2013, 08:56 PM   #5
anico4704
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Quote:
Originally Posted by jethro55 View Post
Thanks for the reply! This is my first starter....moving forward to the refined methods.....slowly but surely. The Beersmith does not list this one, but it does indicate that a starter is called for on just about every brew - else multiple packs for fermentation by the science.

I figure that it is a good way to farm the various yeasts for future use. And this article by the Brulosopher shows how to do that: http://www.homebrewtalk.com/entries/...-approach.html

Couple things. It is actually bad for the yeast to make a yeast starter with Dry yeast is what I have been told because the yeast is in optimum state when it is dehydrated in each pack. Dry yeast has way more cells in each pack than liquid yeast, and it is much cheaper. So if you need more, just buy another pack.

Also, I see you have an airlock on the starter. It is better to either get a foam stopper or just use aluminum foil, as you actually want oxygen to get into the starter so the yeast multiplies which only occurs in the presence of oxygen.

 
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Old 03-02-2013, 09:09 PM   #6
jethro55
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Quote:
Originally Posted by anico4704 View Post
Couple things. It is actually bad for the yeast to make a yeast starter with Dry yeast is what I have been told because the yeast is in optimum state when it is dehydrated in each pack. Dry yeast has way more cells in each pack than liquid yeast, and it is much cheaper. So if you need more, just buy another pack.

Also, I see you have an airlock on the starter. It is better to either get a foam stopper or just use aluminum foil, as you actually want oxygen to get into the starter so the yeast multiplies which only occurs in the presence of oxygen.
Got it. And thanks for the tip. Beersmith is calling for way more cells - not sure if it is valid. Am thinking more about free yeast for future brews. Cost savings seem big.

 
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Old 03-02-2013, 09:12 PM   #7
anico4704
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Quote:
Originally Posted by jethro55 View Post
Got it. And thanks for the tip. Beersmith is calling for way more cells - not sure if it is valid. Am thinking more about free yeast.
I would try MRMalty.com for yeast starters, it is a little more intuitive than Beer Smith. I also have Beer Smith and I know one thing it does is automatically sets the packaging date of the yeast extremely far back. You can see this if you double click the yeast item in your ingredient list and check the date. I know at least with liquid yeast, the viability drops tremendously after a couple months so you have to up the starter size. I know dry yeast lasts a lot longer but it may be set a couple years back in Beer Smith by default. I think you have to set this every time you add the item.

http://www.mrmalty.com/calc/calc.html <----Mr Malty yeast calc.

 
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Old 03-02-2013, 09:35 PM   #8
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I do starters for dry yeast most of the time now. I never understood why not to. Is it not just basically turning dry yeast in to liquid yeast and increasing cell count and thus decreasing lag time? I dont see a drawback to it and you can verify yeast vitality prior to pitching. Just my thoughts though. It may not be necessary but I dont see where it hurts anything and may actually help?
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Old 03-02-2013, 09:36 PM   #9
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What's the SG on the beer you're going to be brewing?

 
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Old 03-02-2013, 09:39 PM   #10
anico4704
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Quote:
Originally Posted by WyomingBrewer View Post
I do starters for dry yeast most of the time now. I never understood why not to. Is it not just basically turning dry yeast in to liquid yeast and increasing cell count and thus decreasing lag time? I dont see a drawback to it and you can verify yeast vitality prior to pitching. Just my thoughts though. It may not be necessary but I dont see where it hurts anything and may actually help?
I think the main reason is because of the state the yeast is dehydrated in, which is the optimal state of the yeast. I'm sure its not a huge problem either way but you are just introducing unnecessary infection risk. The yeast is almost just as cheap to buy another pack as making a starter, so why not just buy 2 packs if needed?

Also 1 dry yeast pack has 220 billion cells, which is more than sufficient for 90% of brews.

 
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