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Old 02-28-2013, 02:44 AM   #1
StroudCreek
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OK guys I would like to try brewing my first BIAB this weekend, All I have is a 30 quart pot but I would like to end up with about 5.5 gal of wort when I finish. I know I will have to add water. Can someone help my out with a IPA recipe. It would be great if I could finish with a 6% to 7% avb IPA
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Old 02-28-2013, 04:09 PM   #2
ZombieBrew83
 
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I also do BIAB with a 30 qt kettle. I try to keep my grain bills around 10lbs and if I have to go over I mash with a few lbs of DME. I've done this a couple times with great success. I will be attempting this recipe this weekend using my current set up:

http://www.homebrewtalk.com/f69/bell...ey-come-91488/

Updates to the grain bill:
7lbs two row
2 lbs Light DME
2 lbs Vienna
0.5 lbs CaraPils
0.5 lbs Crystal 20L

Hop additions will be the same.

Make sure that your grain is crushed fine. I mill mine at around 0.017 at Midwest. I mash in with 5 gallons of water. Add all the grain and DME into the mash. After the mash is complete I stir the grainbed while adding heat for a quasi mash-out. Then I place the grain bag in a bucket on top of a colander to drain the runnings while I heat the water to a boil. Before I reach boil I need to add about a gallon of spring water. After squeezing the bag I end up with about a half gallon of runnings that goes back into the kettle. This gives me about 6.25 gallons at the start of boil. I boil off about a gallon per hour. If needed, I top off with spring water after chilling. My efficiency has been around 75% so far.

Good Luck! Let me know if you have any more questions.

 
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Old 02-28-2013, 04:18 PM   #3
Echoloc8
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Got this one on tap now, and it's awesome:

http://www.homebrewtalk.com/f69/bee-...ery-ipa-59907/

Was about a 7-gal boil, so you ought to be OK. I used a few lbs of DME myself, not for BIAB, but because of mash tun size restrictions (still only got a 5-gal).

Makes 5.5 gal as formulated too.

-Rich
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Old 02-28-2013, 04:22 PM   #4
QuercusMax
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ZombieBrew, why do you add the dme to the mash? That doesn't make much sense. Just add it when you boil. What you're doing will probably waste some of your DME.

 
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Old 02-28-2013, 04:25 PM   #5
Echoloc8
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Quote:
Originally Posted by QuercusMax View Post
ZombieBrew, why do you add the dme to the mash? That doesn't make much sense. Just add it when you boil. What you're doing will probably waste some of your DME.
Was thinking the same thing. Some of that DME will get stuck in the grains: no lauter process is perfect. Much better to get all the sugars you paid for and put the DME in the boil.

-Rich
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Old 02-28-2013, 06:48 PM   #6
ZombieBrew83
 
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Believe it or not, you can re-mash extract to make it more fermentable if you wish. Extract is essentially created by mashing at 156degF. The two-hearted clone calls for a mash at 150. I include the DME in the mash so the enzymes can go to work at chomping down the extract a little further to make it more fermentable. I first read about this technique here:

http://www.homebrewtalk.com/f69/bell...ey-come-91488/

Since I don't have a kettle large enough to do true all-grain recipes with more than 10lbs comfortably I decided to give it a try...and it WORKS! You don't have to remash the DME. I just prefer a drier beer and in this case, the recipe calls for it anyways. I've been hitting my numbers at a pretty steady ~75% using this method according to the calculators at tastybrew.com. I do raise the temp at the end of the mash, stir thoroughly, and squeeze my grain bag as much as I can to get the most sugar out of it. To each, his own. Just thought I'd share my experience with this method.

 
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Old 02-28-2013, 07:26 PM   #7
Echoloc8
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Quote:
Originally Posted by ZombieBrew83 View Post
I include the DME in the mash so the enzymes can go to work at chomping down the extract a little further to make it more fermentable.
Ahaaa, good answer. I had heard of this, and for a drier finish it does make sense. Do you wind up with a lower OG than you might otherwise thanks to lautering loss, or is it right on the numbers?

-Rich
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Old 02-28-2013, 09:36 PM   #8
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Echoloc8 View Post
Ahaaa, good answer. I had heard of this, and for a drier finish it does make sense. Do you wind up with a lower OG than you might otherwise thanks to lautering loss, or is it right on the numbers?

-Rich
I've only done this a couple times. Once I ended up with a higher OG than planned for. Got 84% conversion from the grain only expected 75%. The other times it has been right on the money, 75%. I squeezer the hell out of the bag to get as much sugar off the grain. Plus I mash pretty thin to begin with ~2 qts/lb of grain.

This method has been effective so far and very encouraging. Glad to be able to use my 30qt kettle for a while longer before I upgrade to something large to attempt true all-grain brews.

 
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Old 03-01-2013, 01:58 AM   #9
StroudCreek
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Thanks guys
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