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Old 03-11-2013, 08:09 PM   #21
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I wish I was that handy with wood. What I do needs to be hidden under primer, caulk, and topcoat.
I think I have gained a little patience as I get older which seems to help. Having the right tools and being an anal engineer might help as well Although, the engineer part sure is a pain in my butt sometimes!


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Old 03-11-2013, 09:19 PM   #22
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I really need some help with this. I have illuminated push-buttons from automationdirect for all my switches. I am confused on how to wire them up to trigger a single buzzer/light. I've attached automationdirect's wiring diagram and added some hot and neutral lines as to how I thought it should be wired up. However, I'm afraid that if one switched is turned on while the other's are off, the 'on' switch would be sending power over to the other switches' indicators lights, lighting them up. Or, is the neutral in each switch somehow controlled strictly by that switch? I just don't want one switch turned on and have all of the other switches lights turn on even though those switches are turned off. I hope that makes sense. Thanks for any help.


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Old 03-11-2013, 10:14 PM   #23
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I really need some help with this. I have illuminated push-buttons from automationdirect for all my switches.
...
...
I'm really confused with your wiring diagram as I do not understand what you are trying to show. Please help me help you. Your diagram is not even near complete and also does not show what you are controlling.

I'm here to help and make it right.

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Old 03-11-2013, 10:22 PM   #24
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I'm really confused with your wiring diagram as I do not understand what you are trying to show. Please help me help you. Your diagram is not even near complete and also does not show what you are controlling.

I'm here to help and make it right.

P-J
After each timer and PID, I have a switch to turn on/off an alarm buzzer/light (see my wiring diagram in previous posts). So, when a timer goes off, or a PID says I have reached a preset temp, or whatever, and the switch is turned on, it will send a signal to the buzzer. The signal from the timers and PID's is sent to #4 on the switch. When the switch is closed, it sends power to x1 (the LED) and eventually to the buzzer. I have conerns that sending this power to the next switch in line will trigger that next switch's LED to come on even if that next switch is turned off. x2, I believe, goes to common neutral. The #1 and 2 will be hooked up to my safe start relay.
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Old 03-11-2013, 10:45 PM   #25
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cheez,

Your diagram (at the beginning of this thread) is so small that I cannot cypher it. Then your drawing in post #22 is something that I cannot follow.

Sorry about that, but without info I'm not able to help.

I hope you get it figured out and are able to solve your issues.

Wishing you the best.

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Old 03-11-2013, 11:23 PM   #26
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I attached a pdf file a couple of posts up that should be legible. There's also a pdf of my wiring diagram in earlier posts that I will try to dig up.

EDIT: Post #6 has a clickable PDF of my original wiring diagram and post #22 above has a clickable PDF of the switch wiring diagram.
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Old 03-12-2013, 12:43 AM   #27
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Here's the latest overall (rough) wiring diagram and the wiring diagram for the automation direct illuminated push-button switches.

Again, I'm hoping that all of these "alarm" switches can be connected to a single buzzer. After drawing out the switch wiring diagram, I'm afraid that when any switch is turned on it will light up the LED's of the other switches, even if they are off. I'm hoping that these switches somehow switch off the neutral but I cannot find any information on that. I was hoping to use these switches as they match the other switches (pump and element) that I have. Worse case, I guess I could not connect the illuminated feature or use non-illuminated switches.
File Type: pdf alarm switch wiring.pdf (46.1 KB, 75 views)
File Type: pdf Wiring Diagram 3.pdf (81.1 KB, 97 views)
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Old 03-12-2013, 02:16 AM   #28
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to your concern of lighting up all the lights together, as you show the wiring, that's exactly what will happen. you'll need to provide isolation between the segments via diodes, assuming it's 5-12VDC.

Also, will need a bit more of the wiring for the alarm switch to help you figure out where to put them.
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Old 03-12-2013, 02:24 AM   #29
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The way you have it wired, the switches will only light up when the alarm is triggered (the only hot wire going to the light is dependent on the PID). And yes, all of the lights will come on together.

Do you have room to add another NO contact block to each switch? Then you could have the hot come into that block and illuminate the LED when the switch is on. I hacked up your drawing (sorry for the crappy quality). The hot would come into #3. When the button is pushed, power will go from #4 to X1 (light turns on) and to the PID alarm. When the PID alarm is triggered, power is sent to #6. With the switch closed, power would go from #5 to the buzzer.

I think this will work but will leave it up to the experts for verification. I'm guessing someone has had this same issue before.
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Old 03-12-2013, 03:04 AM   #30
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Originally Posted by Shockerengr View Post
to your concern of lighting up all the lights together, as you show the wiring, that's exactly what will happen. you'll need to provide isolation between the segments via diodes, assuming it's 5-12VDC.

Also, will need a bit more of the wiring for the alarm switch to help you figure out where to put them.
The alarm switches are the 5 green circles shown above the PID's and timers in the main wiring diagram - they are labeled ast "120v Illum. Switch". I was hoping to have visual confirmation, via the "illuminated" part of the switch, that the alarm switch is actually on or off. I could easily solve this by not illuminating these switches or by using non-illuminated switches but there has got to be a way to make this work.


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