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Old 02-28-2013, 01:55 AM   #1
cheez
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I have a MT, BK, and HLT on order from Stout Tanks and they are due in May. I am trying to get a jump start on the control panel build because once the kettles get here... I want to brew!

I will be building a 6'L x 2.5'D x 2'H wood brew stand this weekend. It's similar to Kal's and a few others but I will be running the boards along the 6' length. I am going with 1x6 for the top and 1x4 for the bottom shelf.

I have a bunch of control panel stuff on order (16x16x8 panel, outlets, plugs, extension cord, elements, etc.) and hope to order the PID's, contactors, timers, breakers, DIN terminal blocks, lights, switches, etc. within a few days.

I'm shooting for a 50-amp control panel so I can run back-to-back batches and/or just have the capability of heating up extra water. Plus, I like monsterous wire! I am leaning towards illuminated LED pushbutton switches to eliminate clutter and extra holes on the panel. I shooting for all DIN mounted components. I have yet to figure out which safe start interlock relay & socket I want.

Here is my first stab at a wiring diagram (pretty much copied P-J's and a few others) along with a couple of control panel layout options.

Thanks to a lot of folks on here for the inspiration, ideas, and help. Any feedback on the diagram and panel would be very much appreciated!

Chris
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Old 02-28-2013, 01:58 AM   #2
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After looking at my post I hope people can see the fuzzy wiring diagram and control panel layout. I'm new to including attachments so any input on that would be very helpful. My originals are crystal clear.
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Old 03-01-2013, 11:23 PM   #3
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I am hoping to order the PID's, contactors, switches, SSR's, indicator lights, RTD's, etc. over the weekend. Does anyone see anything that looks out of whack on the wiring diagram or control panel layout(s)? Thanks for any help.
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Old 03-02-2013, 12:21 AM   #4
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It's too small - can't read it.

 
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Old 03-02-2013, 12:57 AM   #5
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Quote:
Originally Posted by alien View Post
It's too small - can't read it.
What's the best way to include a larger diagram? I created it on 11x17. Thanks.
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Old 03-02-2013, 05:33 AM   #6
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Hopefully this wiring diagram is more legible.
File Type: pdf Wiring Diagram.pdf (81.9 KB, 469 views)
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Old 03-02-2013, 05:59 AM   #7
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You seem to have given this quite a lot of thought.

I really don't like the E-stop to ground. I know that P-J recommends this but safer than tripping the GFCI would be to have the E-stop cutting the 63A contactor coil.

I suggest 1A fast blow fuses to protect the PIDs. Otherwise if there is a surge or fault they might blow up before the 16 A breaker trips. The 25A breaker and contactor are right on the limit for the 5500W element, I would want a margin. Maybe think about a switch to cut the buzzer. I think you can get away with 10 AWG ground wire.

An Auber PID just to monitor mash temp is a bit rich for my blood.

 
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Old 03-02-2013, 07:46 AM   #8
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Quote:
Originally Posted by alien View Post
You seem to have given this quite a lot of thought.

I really don't like the E-stop to ground. I know that P-J recommends this but safer than tripping the GFCI would be to have the E-stop cutting the 63A contactor coil.

I suggest 1A fast blow fuses to protect the PIDs. Otherwise if there is a surge or fault they might blow up before the 16 A breaker trips. The 25A breaker and contactor are right on the limit for the 5500W element, I would want a margin. Maybe think about a switch to cut the buzzer. I think you can get away with 10 AWG ground wire.

An Auber PID just to monitor mash temp is a bit rich for my blood.
I appreciate your input. Any wiring tips on your e-stop / main contactor suggestion? Good suggestion on the 1a fuses in front of the PID's. I will hunt around for a higher amp breaker and contactor for at least the 5500w element. It's just hard to beat ebrewsupply's 25a contactor prices.

I figured the alarm pushbutton switches would be used to turn off the buzzer since these buttons also enable it.

The extension cord coming into the panel will be a 6/3 + 8/1 so I definitely do not need a 6 ga ground in the panel. Thanks for catching that.

I've gone back and forth on the MT PID and can't make up my mind. I think it would be slightly useful and it doesn't cost too much to add. I'll mull over it some more.

Thanks again for your help.

Chris
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Old 03-02-2013, 10:51 AM   #9
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Check your diagram and follow the power being delivered to the Boil element. Line 1 comes from the 25A breaker on the right. Line 2 comes from the 25A breaker on the left.

Same problem with the HLT set up.

BTW: I see no problem at all with the use of a 25A beaker providing power to the 5500W element. The current draw will be 23A.

 
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Old 03-02-2013, 03:17 PM   #10
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Quote:
Originally Posted by P-J View Post
Check your diagram and follow the power being delivered to the Boil element. Line 1 comes from the 25A breaker on the right. Line 2 comes from the 25A breaker on the left.

Same problem with the HLT set up.

BTW: I see no problem at all with the use of a 25A beaker providing power to the 5500W element. The current draw will be 23A.
Good catch on the lines being crossed - thanks!

Chris
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