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Old 02-20-2013, 11:26 PM   #11
LBussy
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My best ... beer ... ever ... was one that was a "bad batch". It froze because of a broken thermostat, then sat in that same kegerator unplugged over the winter because I forgot about it. I opened the fridge about 6 months after the freezing incident to find it there waiting for me. It was not a forgiving style, a bock, and it ended up going on to win several first place and a BoS (with an offer from a micro to run the recipe as a special).

So ... your beer sounds fine, you received good advice, and NEVER throw away a batch till it's green and chunky. At that point you make soups and brats with it.
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Old 02-20-2013, 11:59 PM   #12
TheBS19
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Regarding the late addition of LME- does this apply to ALL fermentables (I.e. some belgian style kits that have candi sugar in addition to LME and DME)? Or should you always add the "other" fermentables in whole at the beginning of the boil as the kit recipes call for and just split the addition of LME (read in another thread to try 1/3 initially and 2/3 at flame out, which I was going to try on my next batch)?

Thanks!

 
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Old 02-21-2013, 01:16 AM   #13
Dybz
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It seems like some people are saying that the beer should stay in the primary fermentor for 3 weeks, or am I misunderstanding this? I though the popular was to do it was 1 week in primary and then 2 in secondary? Or for a simpler method just 2 in primary? Or is the answer "it depends"?

 
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Old 02-21-2013, 04:26 AM   #14
bretn
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Dybz View Post
It seems like some people are saying that the beer should stay in the primary fermentor for 3 weeks, or am I misunderstanding this? I though the popular was to do it was 1 week in primary and then 2 in secondary? Or for a simpler method just 2 in primary? Or is the answer "it depends"?
I don't think there's a complete consensus on this, but many, many brewers are no longer using secondaries unless it's to dry-hop or to add fruit or other additions. In my opinion any possible benefits aren't worth the contamination risks of transferring more than necessary. And, as others have said here, leaving the beer in the primary for a couple or a few weeks will give the yeast needs time to clean things up and you'll come out with a more mature beer that can be just as clear as a beer out of the secondary.

Edit: Here's a post on just that topic: http://www.homebrewtalk.com/f163/sec...-weigh-176837/

Reason: added link

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Old 02-21-2013, 03:23 PM   #15
unionrdr
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Quote:
Originally Posted by TheBS19 View Post
Regarding the late addition of LME- does this apply to ALL fermentables (I.e. some belgian style kits that have candi sugar in addition to LME and DME)? Or should you always add the "other" fermentables in whole at the beginning of the boil as the kit recipes call for and just split the addition of LME (read in another thread to try 1/3 initially and 2/3 at flame out, which I was going to try on my next batch)?

Thanks!
I do it with DME & LME. Half a 3lb bag of plain DME in the boil for hop additions,the remaining DME & all LME at flame out. Gives lighter Color & cleaner flavor. Sugars,maltodextrin,lactose,etc can go in the boil the last 10 minutes or so to stir & dissolve.
Quote:
Originally Posted by Dybz View Post
It seems like some people are saying that the beer should stay in the primary fermentor for 3 weeks, or am I misunderstanding this? I though the popular was to do it was 1 week in primary and then 2 in secondary? Or for a simpler method just 2 in primary? Or is the answer "it depends"?
For me,the 3 weeks comes about with the time needed for the beer to hit FG. Then another 3-7 days to clean up & settle out clear or slightly misty. I don't secondary unless I'm adding something that gets along better without the yeast cake present. Like oaking or fruit additions. Saves extra cleaning & no risk of contamination or oxidation.
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Old 02-21-2013, 03:47 PM   #16
Dybz
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Quote:
Originally Posted by bretn View Post
I don't think there's a complete consensus on this, but many, many brewers are no longer using secondaries unless it's to dry-hop or to add fruit or other additions. In my opinion any possible benefits aren't worth the contamination risks of transferring more than necessary. And, as others have said here, leaving the beer in the primary for a couple or a few weeks will give the yeast needs time to clean things up and you'll come out with a more mature beer that can be just as clear as a beer out of the secondary.

Edit: Here's a post on just that topic: http://www.homebrewtalk.com/f163/sec...-weigh-176837/
Good link, thank you.

Thank you to everyone that posted for the contributions.

 
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Old 02-21-2013, 04:53 PM   #17
kryolla
 
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for a 3 gallon batch you dont need to make a starter. Did you also top off with water after the boil.

 
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Old 02-21-2013, 07:39 PM   #18
Dybz
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Quote:
Originally Posted by kryolla View Post
for a 3 gallon batch you dont need to make a starter. Did you also top off with water after the boil.
I did not. I followed the online Palmer guide that just recommended starting off with an extra gallon or so of water for the boil for a 5 gallon batch. So that is a mistake in my record-keeping, as I actually used about 2.5 gallons during the boil.

 
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Old 02-21-2013, 09:30 PM   #19
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how big is you pot and your final volume should be 3 gallons correct. Do you know how much water you evaporated out during the hour long boil. Also you dont need to boil then cool it down to add your specialty grains.

 
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Old 02-22-2013, 04:51 AM   #20
Dybz
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pot is a 5 gal. i think i undershot the final 3 gallon mark slightly. based on the number of bottles i was able to fill and just a guestimate at how much was left at the bottom of the fermentation bucket i would venture a guess at 2.8-2.9 gallons. i read about the adding water to fermentation bucket to make sure you hit your mark a bit late, so did not incorporate that method into my first brewing experience.

thanks for the note on the specialty grains.

 
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