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Old 02-28-2013, 07:26 PM   #11
Huaco
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Yeah, I will see what I can throw together here as far as a step-by-step. However, theoretically, it is nothing more than building 3 controllers in one box.

Yeah, I was pretty green this time last year with electricity. I learned A LOT in the last year. I just know the basics of it. It would be similar to knowing the basics of plumbing... "It flows downhill..." lol

 
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Old 02-28-2013, 08:51 PM   #12
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I thought that 3 gang box said Beeer on it, ha! Checking your other thread now.
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Old 02-28-2013, 09:28 PM   #13
mmeadows24
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Huaco, thanks. I figured as much but it's what you did with the terminal blocks that I was really interested in. Also did you run hot and cold on slave receptacles or did you leave it hot for both as you only need it for single source control.

 
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Old 03-01-2013, 02:16 AM   #14
mrklueber
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I am very interested in this concept. I often brew two ten gallon batches about 1 week apart and therefore I would like to have the ability to control the fermentations at different temperatures using the same fermentation chamber. I am subscribing to this thread now.

 
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Old 03-01-2013, 11:15 PM   #15
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Quote:
Originally Posted by mmeadows24 View Post
Huaco, thanks. I figured as much but it's what you did with the terminal blocks that I was really interested in. Also did you run hot and cold on slave receptacles or did you leave it hot for both as you only need it for single source control.
Each of the three receptacles are isolated and controlled by it's respective controller. I maintained the 2-stage functionality on each receptacle (hot AND cold outlets) so that I could use ANY of the three as the "Master".

I have (2) 8 post terminal blocks. One for HOT and the other for NEUTRAL. One of each is epoxied to the ends of the 3-gang box. JB Weld worked GREAT in this application. I daisy-chained the Neutral and Grounds inside the 3-gang box, then out to the terminal block for the neutral and solder-spliced into the power cord ground for the ground, then covered in shrink wrap.

All the wiring was 14 ga. When using 14 ga. it is an absolute "must" to use the pin terminals for the ends that get attached to the controller. I just could not get a safe, reliable connection made with such thick wire. I need to retro fit 2 other controllers I made too.

 
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Old 03-27-2013, 05:41 PM   #16
mmeadows24
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Huaco, did you use a different probe then the one that came with the STC-1000. Also, have you had any issues with the mono plug. I read somewhere that the connect surface area on the plugs are small and tarnish easily and can affect temperature fluctuations. It was suggest to use xlr connectors. What are your thoughts on it?

 
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Old 03-27-2013, 05:52 PM   #17
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The mono plugs seem to work just fine right now. They are plated so I don't know how easy they would tarnish.

That said... Yes! By all means, XLR would be a much more sound connection. As would RCA. Right when I finished up on this box, I thought to myself... "you should have used RCA connections"

Yes, I am using the original probes. Inside the box, I am using 22 or 24 ga. wires to go to the sensor inputs from the panel receptacle. I need to calibrate them all. I have some temp differential between them...

 
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Old 04-05-2013, 03:00 AM   #18
mmeadows24
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Huaco,
Man you just keep giving me more ideas. So I wanna do the RCA thing but I am not sure the wire on the probe is big enough. Anyone comment on that one. Also wondering how you wire up that whole 8 post terminal deal man!!! I just can't figure it out as my skill with the electrical are nill. Help please!!!! The pics are nice but I can't see the whole setup to get an idea what to do.

 
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Old 04-05-2013, 01:25 PM   #19
BetterSense
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I'm a big fan of RCA plugs/jacks; I use them for all my temp probes. They are cheap, make a good connection, and nearly universal.

 
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Old 04-05-2013, 02:23 PM   #20
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The wires would solder onto the RCA posts right? What does the wire size matter?

Those 8 place terminal blocks are just JB welded to the side of the 3-gang box. I feed the hot and neutral from the supply cord to their respective blocks and just attach to the blocks as you would if you were using wire nuts. Hots go TO each controller Neutrals come BACK to the other block. If you take each controller one at a time, it is quite a simple wire job. I have not done anything different from the original wire jobs everybody else is doing. I Power the unit with standard black/white wires. I use blacks to go FROM the "Hot Block" TO the cold-side switch and then on to the cold receptacle. The REDS are done in the same manner but for the Heating Circuit.

 
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