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Old 02-11-2013, 01:25 AM   #21
moorerm04
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Sep 2011
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I don't want to get great high efficiency. If I was consistent and knew what my efficiency was I would ALWAY be able to punch the numbers into beersmith and not worry about missing my IBU numbers or gravity!

 
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Old 02-11-2013, 04:31 PM   #22
Denny
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Eugene, OR
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Quote:
Originally Posted by mojo_wire View Post
Second double crush. My efficency became much more consistent after I started doing that.

Too high an efficency is not a very good thing. I've gotten it in the 80s before and it didn't help my beer, just made it under hopped.
High efficiency is fine if you expect it and plan for it. I average 83-85%.
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Old 02-12-2013, 07:33 PM   #23
BigRedHopHead
 
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Feb 2012
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Denny View Post
High efficiency is fine if you expect it and plan for it. I average 83-85%.
+1 to this! I plan for it. Adjust my grain bill and hops accordingly. This year I plan on getting 40-50 batches done. With higher efficiency (85%) I should be able to save about a bag of 2-row. That usually costs me $50 at the LHBS. I'll definitely take that!!
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Old 02-12-2013, 08:58 PM   #24
jhall4
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Aug 2012
Pleasanton, California
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Hop_Hero View Post
According to How to Brew you're supposed to add water to the grain not the other way around.
He says that, but in practice it's an extremely trivial point. Really the only differences are:
  1. Pouring room temp grains is safer than poring in 160+ degree water
  2. anecdotally, it's believed pouring grains reduces the chance of forming dough balls
For reference, here is John Palmer mashing in by pouring grains into the water.
http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=N8BsF...utu.be&t=5m52s

 
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