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Old 02-11-2013, 07:07 PM   #21
bobbrews
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Use a 5 gallon nylon mesh paint strainer bag to wrap around your autosiphon (instead of a muslin bag). Secure it with a rubber band or twist-tie. When applying the transfer hose, clamp down the spot at which you connect the hose to the siphon (or secure with a twist-tie). This will prevent bubbling and ensure a smooth transfer.

 
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Old 02-11-2013, 09:00 PM   #22
VampireSix
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5 gallon nylon mesh bag? I'll give that a go next time, as I happen to have a large nylon mesh bag. And I have to heat the siphon hosing just to get it to fit over the end of the siphon, so that's tight enough already.

Is there anything that can be done about the lost volume of beer due to the hops being loose in the bucket?

 
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Old 02-13-2013, 06:25 PM   #23
homebrewbeliever
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Quote:
Originally Posted by VampireSix
5 gallon nylon mesh bag? I'll give that a go next time, as I happen to have a large nylon mesh bag. And I have to heat the siphon hosing just to get it to fit over the end of the siphon, so that's tight enough already.

Is there anything that can be done about the lost volume of beer due to the hops being loose in the bucket?
I am honestly not too sure about this, but I don't think that there is anything you can do. Most brewers that I talk to always expect to loose some volume due to absorption from the hops.
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Old 02-16-2013, 06:27 AM   #24
Brewenstein
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Quote:
Originally Posted by bobbrews View Post
Use a 5 gallon nylon mesh paint strainer bag to wrap around your autosiphon (instead of a muslin bag). Secure it with a rubber band or twist-tie. When applying the transfer hose, clamp down the spot at which you connect the hose to the siphon (or secure with a twist-tie). This will prevent bubbling and ensure a smooth transfer.
I used to do this also. Still had some trouble with hop material collecting at the point of beer intake into the siphon and being a general PITA. Then I had an epiphany (for me anyway) . I used the same 5 gallon mesh paint strainer (sanitized of course), but put it inside my ale pail and stretched the elastic top around the top of the pail. Tossed in my hops, racked beer onto it, snapped the lid on, and let it go for 3 days. Then I removed the lid, lifted the bag, let it drain (just above the beer so it did not splash), put the lid back on for a few days for the fine hop matter to settle out and then bottled. This was by far the clearest, lowest hop material beer that I have dry hopped. No problems with any off flavors / oxidation from opening the bucket several times for this process. I don't think I will do it any other way from now on.

 
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Old 02-16-2013, 06:47 AM   #25
Jbird
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Ok so I'm doing a beer and it said to use 3 whole chipotle chillies. That's it. I'm guess that I should use dry chillies right? I'm not sure what kind to buy.

 
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Old 02-16-2013, 03:14 PM   #26
bobbrews
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Brewenstein View Post
I used to do this also. Still had some trouble with hop material collecting at the point of beer intake into the siphon and being a general PITA. Then I had an epiphany (for me anyway) . I used the same 5 gallon mesh paint strainer (sanitized of course), but put it inside my ale pail and stretched the elastic top around the top of the pail. Tossed in my hops, racked beer onto it, snapped the lid on, and let it go for 3 days. Then I removed the lid, lifted the bag, let it drain (just above the beer so it did not splash), put the lid back on for a few days for the fine hop matter to settle out and then bottled. This was by far the clearest, lowest hop material beer that I have dry hopped. No problems with any off flavors / oxidation from opening the bucket several times for this process. I don't think I will do it any other way from now on.
I never had any trouble with the paint strainer bag wrapped around the auto siphon and I've been doing it for years without even the slightest issue. I have heard of people using muslin mesh bags though, and those are notorious for getting clogged up.

Your method seems to be not that much different from dryhopping in a bag, which a lot of people do, albeit typically longer than 3 days. But you are wrapping the bag around the bucket and tossing the dryhops in, whereas others may be weighing down the bag with marbles/washers, tossing in the dryhops, tying the opening so the dryhops and weights don't escape, and letting the dryhop bag "bob" in the beer.

And I know you're not doing this, but I thought I would mention it for any else who is curious. That is, siphoning your post-dryhopped beer through a mesh bag wrapped around your bottling bucket has a huge downside. Here, you run the much greater risk of oxygenating the beer as it flows through the mesh material, and then hits the bottom of the bucket, creating oxygen bubbles in the process.

 
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Old 02-17-2013, 07:24 AM   #27
Jay1
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Leaf in a carboy=Pain in the ass
Pellets in a carboy=clogged pop-lock unless you put a filter over your racking cane.
Leafs in a bag, in the bucket=my favorite, very easy to deal with.

I have put bags in the keg before and that works awesome too.

Don't worry about loss of beer because of the hop absorption. I pull mine out, zip lock bag them and put them in the freezer. Next time I cook meat that is my marinade. Its awesome, try it. Its too bad i have to make 5 gallons of beer to cook 2 chicken breasts.

 
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Old 02-17-2013, 01:45 PM   #28
jaynik
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Feb 2009
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Dry hopping a bucket (primary) is easiest and has never caused a problem for me. If you are worried about loss to hops, account for that in your recipe and increase the volume of grains.

 
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Old 02-17-2013, 04:40 PM   #29
schokie
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Mar 2010
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I dry hop pellets in a bucket with no issues. The key is to cold crash prior to packaging. I find cold crashing in general greatly reducing sediment and improves the clarity of the beer.

 
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Old 02-18-2013, 03:33 PM   #30
VampireSix
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Jan 2013
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Brewenstein View Post
I used the same 5 gallon mesh paint strainer (sanitized of course), but put it inside my ale pail and stretched the elastic top around the top of the pail. Tossed in my hops, racked beer onto it, snapped the lid on, and let it go for 3 days. Then I removed the lid, lifted the bag, let it drain (just above the beer so it did not splash), put the lid back on for a few days for the fine hop matter to settle out and then bottled. This was by far the clearest, lowest hop material beer that I have dry hopped. No problems with any off flavors / oxidation from opening the bucket several times for this process. I don't think I will do it any other way from now on.
I think I'll give this method a go for my next dry hop, but without racking. Most likely I will dry hop for a week, then move the bucket to my bottling location and remove the hop bag (strainer, essentially), and let it sit overnight before bottling.

Another question... for my current DIPA that is approaching FG, should I let it condition for a week after hitting FG before dry hopping, or is it OK to condition AND dry hop at the same time?

 
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