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Old 02-03-2013, 07:45 PM   #1
alien
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Apr 2012
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After moving house I am rebuilding my brewing apparatus from scratch. I started with the MLT. Nothing too out of the ordinary here, but somebody planning a similar conversion might be interested in my design choices.

I used a 70qt Coleman Xtreme cooler, which is very good value for the size. I found that a 1/2" close nipple was just the right length for the bulkhead. I had bought a 2" nipple but it was much too long. I reused the plastic washer from the cooler drain to seal the inside of the bulkhead, and strengthened the cooler wall with a section of PVC pipe as recommended by Bobby M. The bulkhead was rock solid and sealed watertight. My thanks go out to the folks at Home Brew Talk who pioneered this design.





I chose to make a 4-tube copper manifold with 1/2" slot spacing. The shape of the manifold is conventional, but I improvised a sliding tee arrangement to connect to the drain.



There's a few more picture on my blog page, as well as assembly instructions and a parts list.

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Old 02-06-2013, 03:37 PM   #2
JIW126
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Oct 2010
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Thanks for posting this. I just bought the same cooler, since my 10 gallon round Rubbermaid just wasn't cutting it anymore now that I've moved up to 10 gallon batches. It's always nice to have a walk through and a parts list laid out so I can get this build done with one trip to HD.

 
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Old 02-06-2013, 08:02 PM   #3
stewart194
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Nov 2012
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This is great! I just decided yesterday that this was the cooler I would start with. I hadn't even thought about the hardware yet but this is perfect.

Question...I was planning on just using a single steel braided line for the manifold. What is the advantage of doing a copper manifold like the one you built? I'm planning on batch sparging if that makes a difference.

THANKS!!

 
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Old 02-07-2013, 06:33 AM   #4
alien
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Apr 2012
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Thanks Stewart! A stainless braid should be fine for batch sparging. Eventually I'd like to use this MLT in a HERMS and I have heard that a manifold is slightly preferable for that.

 
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Old 02-08-2013, 02:24 PM   #5
stewart194
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Alien -
I've looked at your web page and parts list, but I still can't figure out where the "T" fitting you show in this post comes into play.
???

 
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Old 02-08-2013, 11:36 PM   #6
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I am sure it is just to show the slots in the manifold, but it will drain better if the slots face the bottom of the cooler. Other than that it looks great!

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Old 02-08-2013, 11:46 PM   #7
eric19312
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Quote:
Originally Posted by stewart194
Alien -
I've looked at your web page and parts list, but I still can't figure out where the "T" fitting you show in this post comes into play.
???
Also curious about this. Why the stainless T and not just straight to a ball valve?

 
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Old 02-09-2013, 04:29 AM   #8
alien
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Apr 2012
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I was thinking about putting a thermowell in the end of the tee, and having the valve hang off the middle arm. I decided against it. I need a new photo really, don't I?

 
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Old 02-09-2013, 01:32 PM   #9
GrogNerd
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I also got the 70-qt

came up with this design for CPVC manifold, but thinking of redoing it to match yours. mine's way too convoluted and a pain in the a** to reassemble. yours looks much easier and covers more area. KISS

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also got this cooler bulkhead fitting + ball valve + hose barb from bargain fittings. did not need to drill or use anything to strengthen the bulkhead wall. used some plumbing putty epoxy around the opening and that's it.

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Old 02-10-2013, 04:25 AM   #10
JIW126
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Is there some trick I'm missing. I'm having a hell of a time getting the 2 T's filed out enough so they will slide over the tube. Any help would be appreciated.

 
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