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Old 02-04-2013, 05:03 AM   #11
helibrewer
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Stainless hardens from both working it and heat....so the key is to keep the work cool and use an aggressive bit so you are undercutting the work hardened steel.
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Old 02-04-2013, 05:58 AM   #12
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I don't really need it at this time but I do like tools. I wouldn't mind having a used greenlee step drill at the right price. How much does the GFCI inline 30a 240v cord that you are looking for cost? I sent a PM to you but if paypal is not good send me a counter solution.

 
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Old 02-04-2013, 09:56 AM   #13
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I have been told time and time again from some really good machinists to use a little vinegar when drilling stainless. So I admit I have tried this and it does work killer. I now use carbide (and sometimes vinegar) to do all my large hole cuts and step bits with the smaller 1/2" stuff but in a pinch with lesser bits the vinegar is the way to go....Why does it work, I have no idea but the stainless drills like butter.

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Old 02-04-2013, 02:18 PM   #14
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Jaybird View Post
... vinegar is the way to go....Why does it work, I have no idea but the stainless drills like butter.
Now I need to go drill more holes in my Keggle just to test this theory... What wizzardy are you using?!
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Old 02-04-2013, 02:24 PM   #15
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Brulosopher View Post
Great info, thanks! Is there a difference between a conduit and chassis punch? If so which one would I use for the element hole, and what size?
Conduit punches are based on conduit size which isn't the actual size. For example, a 1/2" conduit punch doesn't make a 1/2" diameter hole, it actually makes a 0.622" hole. See:

http://www.engineeringtoolbox.com/co...ze-d_1738.html

Chassis (sometimes called 'radio') punches make holes the size that they are rated to be. In other words, a 1/2" chassis punch makes a 1/2" diameter hole.

Most elements require a 1-1/4" diameter hole. So a 1-1/4" chassis/radio punch would be the right size.

Pictures and more information here in the "STEP 4: Punch a hole in the kettle" of my "Heating Elements" article:

http://www.theelectricbrewery.com/he...lements?page=6

Kal

 
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Old 02-08-2013, 06:55 PM   #16
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Quote:
Originally Posted by BadNewsBrewery View Post
Now I need to go drill more holes in my Keggle just to test this theory... What wizzardy are you using?!
Yeah me too! I been meaning to install that sight glass in my HLT, but the last time I tried using my (worn) HF step bit it seemed to have lost its luster. I've been planning on buying a new one (maybe even greenlee) but I'm going to try vinegar with the old bit first. If it works I will be extremely happy!

 
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Old 02-08-2013, 08:20 PM   #17
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Quote:
Originally Posted by kal View Post
Conduit punches are based on conduit size which isn't the actual size. For example, a 1/2" conduit punch doesn't make a 1/2" diameter hole, it actually makes a 0.622" hole. See:

http://www.engineeringtoolbox.com/co...ze-d_1738.html

Kal
Thats actually not quite right. A 1/2" conduit punch makes a 7/8" hole. The sizes listed on that site are ID of conduit not OD.

 
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