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Old 02-02-2013, 09:11 PM   #11
N3Bruce
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Nov 2012
Reisterstown, Maryland
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I am just getting into the Homebrew hobby, but building an automatic system using something like a Rasberry PI and Uno controllers intrigues me. I work with equipment that uses similar SSRs to power solenoids and small motors like fractional horsepower AC Gearmotors in machines that open and sort mail. The SSR Boards tend to be pretty reliable, and no we don't blow air directly over the boards. You should be good to go as long as you don't exceed the ratings of the components. A 2 amp SSR should be capable of controlling 250 watts, but when a motor starts you need to consider the surge current. Not a big deal if you are running a motor that only draws an amp, but I would size the SSR twice as high as the current rating of the motor, just to be safe.

SSRs are able to switch at a much higher rate than mechanical relays. For firing solenoids, we often "kick" a 12 volt solenoid with 48 volts for a few milliseconds, then use 12 volts to hold it. SSRs are available in ratings up to 20 amps or more, and have replaced mechanical relays in many applications.

One thing you should have in your design is a "snubber" which dampens power spikes when a motor or solenoid is de-energized, and sometimes they are part of the SSR Board assembly.

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Old 02-04-2013, 04:51 PM   #12
jCOSbrew
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Feb 2012
Colorado Springs, CO
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Check the current rating on the mini fridge. You will want at least 10 amps to start the compressor. Probably a couple amps to keep it running.

 
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Old 02-05-2013, 11:38 PM   #13
N3Bruce
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Nov 2012
Reisterstown, Maryland
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The mini fridge is going to be an issue with this board, but if the board has just "fallen into your lap", as opposed to purchasing it, then you use the SSRs on the boards for your smaller device, such as solenoid valves or small pumps, then break out the logic signal for the refrigerator control and send it to a separate SSR. 10 amps should be more than enough, it is about the size we use for a vacuum pump that draws about 5 amps, though we mount those on a heat sink such as a flat aluminum plate.

 
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Old 02-06-2013, 04:35 AM   #14
chadillac7819
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Jan 2012
Orlando, FL
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Thanks for the input everyone. I just couldn't decide so I ended up getting the 8 SSR board AND the 4 10Amp mechanical relay board along with a few 40Amp SSRs. The BCS 462 can control up to 6 PWM and 12 on/off so I figured what do I have to lose (other than money which is nothing new in this hobby). In all honesty though, the 8 SSR board was $22 and the 4 relay board was $10 with shipping, so who's complaining? Now let's hope they work!

In an attempt to offset my rash spending I went searching for deals and was rewarded with these finds:
1 Brand new in the box 12X24X6 Nema 4 steel enclosure - $35
1 REALLY banged up 18X18X6 steel enclosure with some usable wires, DIN rails, and terminal strips - $9
2 new 30A 125/240v female outlet plugs for my elements $0.25 a piece!

 
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Old 02-21-2013, 03:05 PM   #15
chadillac7819
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Jan 2012
Orlando, FL
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I tested two of the relays on my mini-fridge and after it didnít work (LED illuminated but no response from the fridge) I finally found the electrical rating information...1.4 amps running and a max draw of over 5! These SSRs are rated for 2 amps only, up to 240V.

So did I cook the relays? I tested the rest of the board with a lamp and the other 6 all worked flawlessly but the first two still just lit the LED, not the lamp.

If I did fry them, is there anything I can do? Will replacing the two SSRs fix the problem or have I damaged the internal circuitry? I want to know my options before mounting this in my

 
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Old 02-21-2013, 03:16 PM   #16
alien
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Apr 2012
Philadelphia, PA
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You've probably cooked the 2 SSRs. It sounds like the others still work. I wouldn't bother replacing them, it sounds like you have plenty of other relays to hand.

 
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Old 02-25-2013, 06:46 AM   #17
ballz50401
 
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Sep 2010
Mason City, IA
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I'm planning on using this same board to switch on/off 3 120VAC contactor coils, 1 120VAC motorized ball valve, and 1 chugger pump. After purchasing it I kinda wished I went with the standard relay board, but this should work for my "current" needs. The SSR's on this board are protected by a soldered 2A fuse on the board next to the SSR. You probably just blew them. The amazon review below explains further:

http://www.amazon.com/review/R1MLI2I...cm_cr_rdp_perm
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