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Old 01-28-2013, 05:34 PM   #1
f0xtr0t
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Aug 2011
South, Texas
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I've started a keezer build in May. I got a used chest freezer. It has worked fine for 8 months. I had the the temp controller wired into a junction box then just plugged in the freezer into the receptacle. I finished it up 2 days ago and I wired the controller into the fridge's wiring. At first it froze ice on the wall. Then it wouldn't cool below 55. I defrosted and cleaned the inside and dried it out and now it won't cool at all. I just can't figure out why it tanked the day I finished it. Is there anything I can do to confirm that the freezer is dead.


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Old 01-28-2013, 06:05 PM   #2
Thegreatestgray
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Jan 2013
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Check your wiring also you can drop the temp on the controller and see if the compressor turns on if it doesn't I would then check to see if you have enough freon if not check for leaks if no leaks fill and test again but it might just be your wiring isn't connecting properly



 
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Old 01-28-2013, 08:09 PM   #3
f0xtr0t
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What would a freon leak look like? I don't see any oil or dye dripping. I am going to double check my connections. Also would it matter which side of the cord I made switchable? I cut the wire that lead to the original thermostat and left the wire that ran to the compressed whole.
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Old 01-28-2013, 08:18 PM   #4
reverendj1
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Dec 2012
Jenison, Michigan
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Quote:
Originally Posted by f0xtr0t View Post
What would a freon leak look like? I don't see any oil or dye dripping. I am going to double check my connections. Also would it matter which side of the cord I made switchable? I cut the wire that lead to the original thermostat and left the wire that ran to the compressed whole.
I think freon is normally a gas at room temp, so I don't think you would "see" a leak, unless you can see a puncture. My guess is that cutting the wire to the thermostat is what killed it. If I remember, I will ask my roomate when I get home what he thinks, as he is an appliance repairman.

 
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Old 01-28-2013, 08:37 PM   #5
Thegreatestgray
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You can't see it but you can put a vacuum to it and see if it holds the vacuum applied but its most likely your wiring that's wonky since it worked before you wired it

 
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Old 01-29-2013, 05:20 PM   #6
f0xtr0t
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I suspected the wiring too. I double checked and it is sound. My only guess is the starter relay / overload.
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Old 01-29-2013, 09:58 PM   #7
Monster Mash
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The fact it started getting cold and then quit makes me think you have a leak and when chest freezers leak it is usually in the walls to it's not repairable. I'm on my 3rd freezer in 8 years, I have a friend that had 2 brand new ones die in one year.

If you hear the compressor turn on and it's not getting cold there's not much you can do.
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Old 01-30-2013, 05:54 PM   #8
f0xtr0t
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It never got colder after I re-wired it. It just held steady
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Old 01-30-2013, 07:21 PM   #9
Daddy_Hawk
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Oct 2012
Kenosha, Wisconsin
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Can you trouble shoot at least if the compressor is kicking on, and running? If so, then you can probably assume it's a leak. Without the refrigerant though, it's unable to cool properly, but will still run mechanically. It'll at least start to narrow things down a bit.

 
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Old 01-31-2013, 01:25 AM   #10
Junkster
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If it's an older unit with a mechanical control (not electronic) from the factory, it may also have a defrost timer which is mechanical. If it happens to be in the defrost position, it will open the compressor circuit. If the controller that you added is also supplying the power to the defrost timer, the timer will only advance when your new controller is calling for cooling. Depending on the ambient temperature and the controller setpoint temperature, it may take a little while for the timer to advance. If you can locate it, some have a place to stick in a screwdriver and manually rotate it which will advance it so the switch closes and the compressor starts. If there is a cartoon (er, SCHEMATIC) it will be shown in that diagram. If all checks out with a meter and the compressor tries to start but stops (possibly with an audible click), then it may be tripping the overload. This can be caused by a bad start component(s). I worked on a cooler the other day doing this and it was just the start capacitor - cheap fix. Good luck!



 
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