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Old 01-25-2013, 02:39 PM   #31
oakbarn
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Thinking about a mill myself. I would refer to Brewery Rules:

Rule #35: Bigger is Better

This rule has served us well. When we went with the minimum, we had to eventually replace it.

I buy my grain in Bulk (whole bags)from LHBS at a discount and haul the grain back to mill. The price is not that far off what I can get in a group buy after shipping. I can afford to support my LHBS because I want them around.

I do have a question. If you have an adjustable roller, are you constantly having to set it, or is it set it and forget it. I had some adjustable French doors on a house once and had to adjust monthly. Not sure I would want to have to fiddle with a mill if it was a PITA.

 
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Old 01-25-2013, 03:17 PM   #32
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When I first used my Monster Mill MM2 2.0 the set screws came loose on the second batch and I lost my gap setting. I was worried about over tightening the set screws on my shiny new mill. Asked the question around here, got advice to crank them down nice and tight. Then make a couple small marks on the screws and mill so I can readily see if they have moved. Problem solved! havent had any issues with the gap since. You could even use some Loctite (on the set screws) if your worried about it.

Initially you may want to experiment with the gap setting to find a distance that works well for you. Once you are dialed in you should be able to set if and forget it.
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Old 01-25-2013, 03:23 PM   #33
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I've also heard that lock washers work great.

 
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Old 01-25-2013, 04:36 PM   #34
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Schreiner View Post
After running the four sacks of grain through it, I've already paid for this "cheap" mill versus buying it by the pound and milling it at the LHBS. I agree with your statement, but very few of us can justify buying high end right off the bat. I imagine I will "upgrade" at some point, but for now I'm still money ahead.
Using my LHBS per lb vs bulk prices, it would take to pay back per $100 spent (any one):

195# of 2-row, or
152# of Pilsner, or
148# of Marris Otter, or
152# of Munich, or
195# of Pale Ale, or
148# of Vienna

Already had the numbers in spreadsheet, so I just applied a few formulas.

However, I think I could take my LHBS or a buddy into milling bulk sacks for me, so I'm not sure I'll actually be saving that amount...

Quote:
Originally Posted by DENBrewer View Post
I have a Monster Mill MM2 and it is great. The hopper and extension hold a lot of grain. I don't see replacing it for a long time. If I did need to, I would also take a look at Austin Homebrew's new DIY mill:
http://www.homebrewtalk.com/f41/what...t-mill-373777/
Very similar to the MM2 but 1.25" rollers instead of 1.5". Comes with a hand crank so you can use it without a drill if something goes wrong mid grind.

$100 until the end of January is a great deal. At regular price of $130, I don't know. Shipping from Austin Homebrew is also cheaper than other places. Good luck with your decision.
Hmmm. I saw some pictures of a 1.25" grind, and wasn't super satisfied. I agree $130 seems high for that model.

Just waiting for a follow-up email from Fred before I pull the trigger on the Monster.
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Old 01-25-2013, 05:49 PM   #35
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Quote:
Originally Posted by thadius856
Thanks!

 
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Old 01-25-2013, 10:34 PM   #36
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I use the fully adjustable JSP malt mill love the 10inch rollers ease of adjustment and unless your leaving it outside rust shouldn't be a problem.
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Old 01-25-2013, 10:47 PM   #37
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Quote:
Originally Posted by thadius856 View Post
I do this every time. I have to research the hell out of my purchases. I need to believe that I'm getting the absolutely best deal before I buy something. No idea why.

Just really don't want to re-upgrade again any time soon.
Hello, I do the exact same thing, I went with the Monster Mill 2-2.0 2 in rollers and 1/2" shaft, even after talking to the owner of MM, he said it was way over kill for me, that the 1 1/2" rollers would be fine, but I wanted to be able to crush corn just incase I ever get a whim to do so lol, and the 2" roller model will adjust out far enough to crush corn.

And this >>>------> Rule #35: Bigger is Better

Cheers
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Old 01-25-2013, 10:59 PM   #38
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Here are the top rollers on my 2 year old MM3 that is stored in my attached garage. Standard material. No rust.
Click image for larger version

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Old 01-26-2013, 03:34 PM   #39
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Quote:
Originally Posted by thadius856

However, I think I could take my LHBS or a buddy into milling bulk sacks for me, so I'm not sure I'll actually be saving that amount...

Here's the thing....With a mill I don't store any crushed grain. I want that wonderful fresh crush smell you get right after crushing to get into my beer. I think that smell means there are volatile compounds that you are losing by storing crushed grain. I've Al's heard shelf life of crushed grain is lower than in crushed. But maybe this is just all propaganda from people selling mills...

I don't have evidence that fresh crush makes better tasting beer but not sure that is an experiment that I'm interested in doing now that I have a mill... But I guess the experiment wold be to buy grain for 2 batches, crush half, store crushed and uncrushed side by side for maybe a month. Then on brew day crush the in crushed and brew two identical batches back to back. Ferment, package and triangle test....

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Old 01-26-2013, 06:38 PM   #40
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Hello eric19312, I think most of us have purchased a mill more for.

1 the convince of being able to get in on bulk purchase pricing.
2 the connivence of having grain on hand to be able to brew whatever type of brew we want on a whim.
3 having the ability to set our crush to our needs=better control/better consistency of our brews, instead of getting whatever the crush happens to be on the LHBS or retailers mill.
4 some of us just like doing every aspect of the brew process that we can.

5 My personal belief on the aroma/freshness of grain crushed right before you brew is its going to make better beer with more flavor and aroma, I look at it like this if you take two oranges, cut one in half and place both in the fridge, let sit for 3 days, then pull them out, which one would you rather eat, one is going to be better than the other.

I think grain is the same as the oranges, but on a much slower reacting scale.

Just my 2 cents and thoughts.

Cheers to everyone thats brews
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Bartender Ill have what the gentleman on the floor is drinking.

I have spent more $ on brewing equipment than my truck cost!

Green beer sucks, let it age/condition/finish and become great before drinking it. WileECoyote

Good/Great beer takes time! if you want a quick beer go to the store or bar!

Things come and go. Good beer will live on for ever ! WileECoyote

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