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Old 01-21-2013, 05:40 AM   #11
techprof
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I have noticed vorlauf takes a bit longer to clear as well. I just make sure to use finings, it all settles out.

 
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Old 01-21-2013, 05:49 AM   #12
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Quote:
Originally Posted by histo320 View Post
IMO you could easily do 5 gallon batches.

Toilet braid? I am interested. I am currently using the paint strainer method. Did you just poke holes in it or what?
I'm sure he is referring to using a SS reinforced toilet supply line. Simply remove the rubber hose, and you are left with a SS braided mesh that can be used in MLT or as hop strainer in boil kettle....

 
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Old 01-21-2013, 02:51 PM   #13
histo320
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Quote:
Originally Posted by 501irishred View Post
I'm sure he is referring to using a SS reinforced toilet supply line. Simply remove the rubber hose, and you are left with a SS braided mesh that can be used in MLT or as hop strainer in boil kettle....
Nice. It is difficult to remove the hose? I may go out and get one today.
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Old 01-21-2013, 02:55 PM   #14
WilliamShakesbeer
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I've never used a false bottom so I can't say anything about that, but I use one of those "bazooka" screen tubes and never had a problem with it.

 
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Old 01-21-2013, 02:56 PM   #15
Xpertskir
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Quote:
Originally Posted by histo320 View Post
Nice. It is difficult to remove the hose? I may go out and get one today.
removing the hose sucks.

Its like trying to take off overlapping chinese finger cuffs

 
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Old 01-21-2013, 03:07 PM   #16
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Quote:
Originally Posted by WilliamShakesbeer View Post
I've never used a false bottom so I can't say anything about that, but I use one of those "bazooka" screen tubes and never had a problem with it.
Quote:
Originally Posted by Xpertskir View Post
removing the hose sucks.

Its like trying to take off overlapping chinese finger cuffs
LOL! Yea, it's maybe not all that bad, but certainly use caution. These Chinese finger cuffs will bite! Vise and fine tooth hacksaw will do the trick.
There are a ton of different ways to use it, but what I've done is start by making a copper manifold with slots cut in the bottom (cut about 1/3 through) and slipped pieces of the SS mesh over it and clamped with SS gear clamps. I overlapped the mesh over the copper joints so the mesh and clamps hold everything together instead of soldering so I can take it all apart for periodic cleaning.

 
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Old 01-21-2013, 03:20 PM   #17
ApothecaryBrewing
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If you are batch sparging, I have heard that a FB is overkill since you don't have to worry about channeling or anything. I use a SS braid and it works fine for my batch sparges.
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Old 01-21-2013, 03:34 PM   #18
wilserbrewer
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Quote:
Originally Posted by histo320 View Post
Nice. It is difficult to remove the hose? I may go out and get one today.
http://www.donosborn.com/homebrew/mashtun.htm

http://www.homebrewtalk.com/f11/ten-...ersion-125108/

or "dennybrew",
http://hbd.org/cascade/dennybrew/
he pioneered the technology...haha

Depends on your skill set, removing the inner hose is not that difficult IMO...YMMV. Be SURE to get a stainless steel mesh hose...home depot sells some that are plastic polymer but look like SS and you will not be happy

 
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Old 01-21-2013, 03:45 PM   #19
501irishred
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I like the build! A way different approach than I've seen before (didn't think that was possible! lol)

 
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Old 01-21-2013, 03:55 PM   #20
ApothecaryBrewing
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Just a heads up... using vinyl tubing in a build like that will seep toxic plastic chemicals into your wort. For any situation where hot wort is going through tubing I lean towards using silicone tubing. It is temperature rated for up to 500F whereas vinyl is meant for nothing about 70F.

You can use it but you can't sue the company when you get sick or die from ingesting those chemicals.
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