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Old 01-21-2013, 10:37 PM   #21
mattd2
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Quote:
Originally Posted by akthor View Post
the motor can run at either voltage 110 or 220 you wire it according to the low or high voltage diagram on the motor. here's the motor:

http://www.tractorsupply.com/maratho...25-rpm-3241126
Ok thats what I thought.
Basically it is currently wired up for high voltage right, but you are connecting it to low voltage (black - white = 115v).
So you have a choice to make - find a 220v supply or rewire the motor (this should not be much effort now that you have ID'd the wires).

 
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Old 01-21-2013, 10:38 PM   #22
SudsGuy
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Jul 2008
Alabama
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Do you think the taped up box is the capacitor? It looks like a transformer to me that is powering the light, but I'm not sure. It's hard to tell with it all taped up...

The best move may be a new control box though to ensure proper code adherence as well as functionality.

 
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Old 01-21-2013, 10:39 PM   #23
mattd2
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Quote:
Originally Posted by SudsGuy View Post
Without seeing a diagram it's hard, but I'll take another stab at it. The issue is that there are two inputs (P1, P2) to the motor, but three wires (white, red, black) coming out of the control box (not counting grounds). Is that correct akthor?

In my pee little brain you should have:
-Green ground throughout-White through box and to the motor (may make a few stops in the control box including a stop at the power light)
-Black into the power switch, output from the power switch into the rotation selection switch as well as the power light
-Out of the rotation switch should be two wires (I'm thinking black and red) that control motor rotation

It's hard to tell your colors in your picture...Perhaps red and black should be tied together in the motor? Any feedback from anyone on that thought?

That still doesn't explain why you can't get any rotation from solely white and black (should have a voltage drop between them). If you had a voltmeter to check that it would help alot.
Thats is a problem, the green on the output is not ground, the input ground goes to the box and stops there.

 
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Old 01-21-2013, 10:41 PM   #24
mattd2
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Quote:
Originally Posted by SudsGuy View Post
Do you think the taped up box is the capacitor? It looks like a transformer to me that is powering the light, but I'm not sure. It's hard to tell with it all taped up...

The best move may be a new control box though to ensure proper code adherence as well as functionality.
You could be right too.

I think you are right with going for a new control box. You may/should be able to reuse the box & switches. But I would clear out all the current wiring and start from scratch.

 
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Old 01-21-2013, 10:59 PM   #25
akthor
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Here's a pic of the plate:
Click image for larger version

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Old 01-22-2013, 12:04 AM   #26
mattd2
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OK so what we have at the moment is:
Motor is wired for 220V
Motor runs when hooked up to a 110v source (black - white)
Running like this has a couple of problems, 1) it will not give you the full power 2) it could potentially damage the motor if it is drawing an increase current/not cooling as it would if wired correctly.

first step is to supply the motor with the correct voltage, options are:
1) get a 220v plug and use a 220V wall socket - line1/line2 = black/red
2) rewire the motor as per the low voltage diagram - line1/line2 = black/white (ask any questions you need to get this done)

Next is set up the control box:
1) remove all wiring from the box
2) **if motor set up for 115v ensure switches are rated for at least 115v 8.8amp
**if motor set up for 230v ensure switches are rated for at least 230v 4.4amp

Just thinking about it, if you can decide now if you are going 115/230v it would reduce confusion during the next bit.

 
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Old 01-22-2013, 01:01 AM   #27
reynolds5520
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Sorry to leave you hanging, I was working in the field today.


Good news on finding the labels on the motor wires!


Thanks too for the better pics of the controller. I will study it a bit and post again shortly. I am confident we can get this working.

 
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Old 01-22-2013, 02:02 AM   #28
day_trippr
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fwiw, this is what I came up with, wiring the motor for 110VAC, and using an SPST for On/Off control and a DPDT for Forward/Reverse control.



To help with the Forward/Reverse function:

- In the Reverse setting, the Red lead is connected to the P2 and Orange leads, while the Black lead is connected to the White and Yellow leads. This is the way the motor spins with the default wiring as shown on the motor label.

- In the Forward setting, the Red lead is connected to the White and Yellow leads, while the Black lead is connected to the P2 and Orange leads. This would correspond to the "To Reverse" note on the motor label.

If you can identify the two switches on that control box as being one of each, SPST and DPDT, you should be able to cobble the wiring to match the above...

hth

Cheers!

 
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Old 01-22-2013, 02:28 AM   #29
mattd2
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Quote:
Originally Posted by day_trippr View Post
fwiw, this is what I came up with, wiring the motor for 110VAC, and using an SPST for On/Off control and a DPDT for Forward/Reverse control.
Day tripper to the rescue!
Only comment I have is to connect the ground to the control box also if it is metal.

 
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Old 01-22-2013, 02:44 AM   #30
reynolds5520
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Yup, that will do it.

The only thing not in that drawing is the indicator light. If you leave it connected the way it is now and just change the rest to match the drawing, everything should work.

 
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