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Old 03-09-2013, 10:25 PM   #11
Join Date: Mar 2010
Location: Denver
Posts: 29

I measured the resistance and hooked up the lows to 7 & 10 and have 8 & 9 jumped with A connected to 8 or 9, and I am just getting a 0000 temp reading on booth PIDs. Double checked the RTD settings, not sure what I am doing wrong...

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Old 06-01-2013, 07:27 PM   #12
Join Date: Jan 2013
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Originally Posted by acidrain View Post
Do you have this one?
It's 7 & 10 for the low, and 8 & 9 jumped, with A connected to either of those.
I'm making a PID controller for my grill (to control temperature for long or overnight cooking) and have the TD4-SNR PID, and just wanted to thank you for your post -- it confirmed the not-so-clear diagram that came with the PID.

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Old 06-07-2013, 05:34 AM   #13
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I'm glad you were able to figure it out... the Chinese to Engrish instructions suck.
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Old 07-27-2013, 01:39 PM   #14
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Default Calibrating PT100 Sensor

Thanks for the help. I just bought a Mypin TD4 and a PT100 sensor. I had it in my head that I had a K type thermocouple, that's not correct. If you're having trouble with with crazy temp readouts, over 1000 degrees, make sure the PID is set to the right sensor type. The setting "InP" should be set to "Pt". After I did that, the read out went to within 10 degrees of what another thermometer is saying. The "PVF" setting will calibrate that correctly.
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Old 08-01-2013, 05:54 PM   #15
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Old 08-20-2013, 11:37 AM   #16
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thx a lot for the help guys!! But i have a little problem. i have a pid td4-snr. the probe is a pt100, according to the manual when the pid is turned on it starts with autotune mode (the AT/M led is turned off) but in this mode when the temperature is less the SV parameter OUT1 flases insteat to be dix. Why? In order to let the pid operate well i have to enter the autotuning estate (pressing set & <</M) and the pid works well. Why this appens? thx a lot
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Old 09-04-2013, 10:54 PM   #17
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Not sure if you figured this out but I just finished a system using this pid.

The way mine works is the the SV reading is the temp you are trying to achieve and the PV your actual. The Out1 is the main burner and will flash depending on the % of power applied. If you press the Set key it will toggle the set temp and % of power being sent to your burner. At 100% the Out1 will be solid. Anything less, it will flash on and off.

Fill your kettle to the desired level and set a desired temp in SV. Let the autotune complete and AT/M should go out.

From there just play around with SV setting and let you kettle move to different temps. Out1 will be on until it gets close to your set temp and start to flash to maintain.

When you decide to go into manual mode hold <</M until AT/M lights. Press Set to see the % of power to your burner. Reduce that number once you reach a boil.

I know is sounds crazy but once you do it a time or two it makes sense.
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Old 01-14-2015, 11:04 PM   #18
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Default Trouble with keeping temperature with MyPin TD4

My boss put me in charge of building a kegerator. I have zero experience with any of this equipment. I think I got the wiring right, but who knows. I am getting a correct temp reading inside the cooler. I have it set at 40 right now with the alarm set for 1 degree. When the temp drops below 39 the alarm goes off but the cooler keeps dropping. It fluctuates between 36-40, but the cooler and the MyPin make some pretty bad noises. Without the MyPin the cooler goes all the way down to 30, so I am doing something right, but not right enough. Anyone have suggestions for getting the temperature to remain constant? Thanks.
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Old 01-15-2015, 12:49 AM   #19
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You'd be much better off using an STC-1000 for controlling the temp of a kegerator.

If you have any interest in learning why the PID (MyPin TD4) is not a good choice, have a look here:
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Old 01-15-2015, 01:19 AM   #20
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You can turn off PID mode and put it in standard on/off mode. You are essentially turning on and off power to you kegerator hundreds of times a minute... The compressor will hate you for this and eventually fail.

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