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Old 05-30-2013, 06:34 PM   #71
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Originally Posted by Olive Drab View Post

Here is the diagram. switch 1 and 2 would be pulled.
How would I reroute the wires to support a switch to have element 1, off, element 2?
Are any other changes necessary for the 30a?
Get a 3 way switch. Run a hot feed to the common line side, then a line to the HLT contactor and a line to the BK contactor. You'd have either HLT, BK, or OFF but never both. The only other change - you may not need as many breakers.


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Old 06-18-2013, 09:46 PM   #72
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Would 14GA Wire be ok for this build?


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Old 06-19-2013, 01:15 AM   #73
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Would 14GA Wire be ok for this build?
Absolutely - Yes..
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Old 06-20-2013, 05:08 PM   #74
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I have a question on the above Diagram...........can I just plug this into a GFI outlet? Or does there need to be a GFI breaker in the main box?
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Old 06-20-2013, 05:24 PM   #75
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I have a question on the above Diagram...........can I just plug this into a GFI outlet? Or does there need to be a GFI breaker in the main box?
Keep in mind that the element draws 17A on 120V. You might need to use a 1600W element instead. Otherwise, Yes, you can plug it directly into a GFCI outlet.
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Old 06-20-2013, 05:27 PM   #76
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Ok thank you. Would that be plenty to maintain mash temp on say at the max 10 gallon batches?
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Old 06-20-2013, 05:42 PM   #77
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It should be A-Ok.
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Old 06-25-2013, 09:33 PM   #78
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This is amazingly helpful.
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Old 07-15-2013, 10:55 PM   #79
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Quote:
Originally Posted by MyNameIsPaul View Post
Would it be possible to get a diagram similar to this using a 120v 1500W element and 2 pumps?

I just found these diagrams and they make understanding building a control box much easier.

Also what are the parts that are connected the the ground, line and neutral with one wire going in and multiple wires going out?
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Old 07-16-2013, 10:30 AM   #80
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Would it be possible to get a diagram similar to this using a 120v 1500W element and 2 pumps?
Same drawing, just add another switch and outlet next to the other one. It should be easy enough for you to draw, or just do in the field without a drawing as it would be wired exactly the same as the one shown. As for swapping out to a 1500w element, there's really no change to the drawing. Maybe go with a 15a fuse in place of the 20a fuse on the top of the drawing, but otherwise it looks the same.

Quote:
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I just found these diagrams and they make understanding building a control box much easier.
Absoloutely! Check out as many of them as you can and review them until you fully understand what each wire is doing and why it's there and you'll have a great understanding of how these things work.

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Also what are the parts that are connected the the ground, line and neutral with one wire going in and multiple wires going out?
These are power distribution blocks, terminal strips, or any variation there in. They allow you to attach multiple wires together and add or remove them as necessary, and are much more secure than just wire-nutting everything together. The type shown is just a bunch of little metal strips with two screws each - attach your line (supply) to one end and your load (whatever you want powered) to the other end and you have power. Note that each little metal tab is separate from the one next to it, so if you want one line wire and multiple load wires, you need to jumper (a short connecting wire) all the little metal tabs together so they all have power.

Good luck with the build!
-Kevin


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Building a Bad News Brewery - eHERMS

2014 - 70gal
2015:
10gal American Pale Ale
5gal Wee Heavy
10gal Irish Red

Keg 1: Apfelwein
Keg 2: American Pale Ale
Keg 3: Wee Heavy
Untapped Kegs: Irish Red
Fermenting: Nothing (need to start drinking!)
On Deck: Hefewizen
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