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Old 09-07-2007, 10:07 PM   #1
Bobby_M
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Ok, I'm in a pinch now. I've got a 10 gallon batch of American Amber mashing right now and I could have sworn I had two packets of dry US-05 in the fridge. No dice.

So, I have 1 cup of slurry (after pouring off the beer on top) that I harvested out of the primary on my Blonde batch 8 days ago. It was in primary for 3 weeks and then in a mason jar in the fridge since I harvested. What are the odds this will work out on a 10 gallon batch of 1.058 beer without making a starter? Doh!!! I already have a bad feeling. I've got some S-04 and Nottingham but I was really hoping to stay american on it.

I've also got refrigerated slurry from WLP001 but it's been in the fridge for 4 months.

What should I do?

Maybe I can proof it by taking a bit of first runnings and boiling it on the stove for 10 minutes, cooling, then introducing about a cup of it into the mason jar. How long would it take to bubble? I guess this would tell me if I should pitch some dry stuff or not.
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Old 09-07-2007, 10:31 PM   #2
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so its mostly yeast slurry, or still a bit of trub? (i.e. has it been 'washed' to give you about a cup of actual yeast?)

if its mostly yeast I think you'd be able to just pitch it. worst case you'll have some lag, but I've seen your advice and videos...your sanitizing is definitely up to snuff...so lag time shouldn't be 'risky' for a guy like you.
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Old 09-07-2007, 10:34 PM   #3
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Hmmm, yeah, it's not pure yeast. I didn't wash it. I was going to but you know, life gets in the way and stuff. I think maybe I'll pitch it into a really well oxygenated wort and give it 30 hours. If it's still not responding, I'll pitch the Nottingham. Does that make sense?
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Old 09-07-2007, 11:17 PM   #4
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I know this helps you not, but you can turn this into an experiment:
http://byo.com/departments/1274.html

Quote:
In this article, Iíll describe a few easy tests that can give you an idea of the level of contamination in your homebrewed wort and beer. They may also be able to tell you where the contaminating microorganisms came from.

These tests can be especially helpful to homebrewers who plan on repitching their yeast to another batch of beer. A level of contamination that was undetectable by taste in an initial batch of beer may blossom in the next, leading to off flavors and aromas. Knowing the condition of your wort can help you decide whether to repitch or to start with a fresh culture of yeast.

Likewise, these tests can also help you evaluate if you are cleaning all of your equipment adequately. These days, many of us use counter-flow wort chillers. These chillers cool wort quicker and with less water than immersion chillers. However, many homebrewers worry because they cannot see inside the chiller. (With most other pieces of homebrewing equipment, you can visually inspect every surface the wort will touch.) The deep recesses of the chiller are a perfect place for bacteria to take hold and potentially be passed on to all our subsequent beers.
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Old 09-07-2007, 11:25 PM   #5
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Chances are you'll be fine, worst case scenario the beer isn't perfect, but it should still be okay. Let us know how it turns out.
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Old 09-08-2007, 12:03 AM   #6
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I boiled a cup of water with two teaspoons of dextrose in it and then cooled it. I pitched it into the mason jar and shook it up then left the cap on loose. 20 minutes later, it's oozing out all over the place. I guess some yeast made it.
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Old 09-08-2007, 01:19 AM   #7
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right on!

I just tried my first yeast washing of WPL002 (highly flocculent is an understatement)

I'm not sure I salvaged as much as I was supposed to, but I plan to rouse it next week to brew a porter.
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Old 09-08-2007, 01:44 AM   #8
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Bobby_M
I boiled a cup of water with two teaspoons of dextrose in it and then cooled it. I pitched it into the mason jar and shook it up then left the cap on loose. 20 minutes later, it's oozing out all over the place. I guess some yeast made it.
Well, they are all excited now...you have to use them!!

 
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Old 09-08-2007, 01:49 AM   #9
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Mmmmm. Horny yeast. Don't be a tease, Robert.
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