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Old 01-14-2013, 08:51 PM   #1
russki
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Dec 2011
Chicagoland, IL
Posts: 141
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Hello!

Long time lurker, first time poster here! I've been brewing with electric for about a year now using a 32 qt electric turkey fryer and a 1500W heatstick I built to supplement the weak 1650W element. This works great for my modified BIAB routine, but I wanted something bigger, better, and shinier!

I took my inspiration from the following (and countless other) threads:
http://www.homebrewtalk.com/f170/how...kettle-304914/
http://www.homebrewtalk.com/f170/110...atches-341219/

I'm using P-J's 2-element 120V diagram that was posted in one of the above threads, and have to say, P-J, you're awesome!



For my build, I'm using a 62qt Bayou Classic SS Pot with a steamer basket (conveniently sold to me by another HBT member), all SS camlock fittings from BargainFittings, a GreatBrewEh pump, and DudaDiesel 20-plate chiller. For the control panel, I'm using the Auber project box, SYL-2352 PID, and a mix of switchgear from Auber and eBrewSupply. For heating elements, I'm using 2000W SS elements from BostonHeatingSupply.

Plumbing diagram:


Just finished my controller yesterday! It all fits in a small Auber project box with a couple modifications.

A few photos of the build:


Front panel punched:


Modifications to the back (actually ended up flipping the handy box around later):


Trial fitting the insides:


Contactors and terminal strip mounted; e-stop on top:


Starting to wire:


All wired! Ready to button up:


And here are the finished pictures. Tested all functions with a light bulb - everything is working!


It's Alive!!!


From the back:


And a side view:


Next on the list: kettle modifications.

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Old 01-14-2013, 09:12 PM   #2
tyfernandez
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Jan 2012
chicago, IL
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Awesome build. I'm currently working on a similar setup, although I think I might remove one of a contactors and one of the switches and just control both elements with one contactor and one switch.

Couple questions for you,

1. How difficult was fitting everything in that box? It looks rather tight.

2. Where did you get the Heat Sink?

3. How hot does it get with both SSRs on it? Do you think it should be sufficient at cooling? I'm considering getting a heatsink to cover most of the top of the same case for the SSRs.

 
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Old 01-14-2013, 09:20 PM   #3
russki
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Dec 2011
Chicagoland, IL
Posts: 141
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Quote:
Originally Posted by tyfernandez View Post
Awesome build. I'm currently working on a similar setup, although I think I might remove one of a contactors and one of the switches and just control both elements with one contactor and one switch.

Couple questions for you,

1. How difficult was fitting everything in that box? It looks rather tight.

2. Where did you get the Heat Sink?

3. How hot does it get with both SSRs on it? Do you think it should be sufficient at cooling? I'm considering getting a heatsink to cover most of the top of the same case for the SSRs.
It was pretty tight - but I didn't find it overly difficult to fit everything in. A "bump-out" outlet box really helped.

I got the heatsink from eBay - I had to cut about an inch off so it would fit. Then just drilled and tapped mounting holes. I don't know how hot it's going to get just yet, since I only tested with a light bulb. I'm thinking for running at 50% load (20A through a 40A SSR), this heatsink should be sufficient.

 
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Old 01-17-2013, 09:40 PM   #4
russki
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Dec 2011
Chicagoland, IL
Posts: 141
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Made some additional progress as I'm waiting for the last few pieces to arrive. More pictures!

Kettle punched!


View from the inside:


Bulkhead and ball valve installed:


One of the elements' mounting boxes:


Had to plug an extra hole that I decided not to use:


Everything is mounted and leak-tested! There's another element box on the other side:


And that's what inside looks like:


I waterproofed element boxes with silicone on the inside, once it dries, I just have to wire the cords, and we're in business!

 
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Old 01-17-2013, 10:00 PM   #5
nutty_gnome
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I'm probably showing my ignorance... but why didn't you go with a bigger SSR for each circuit? Wouldn't that eliminate the need for the contacters?

Edit - let me rephrase after I looked at the diagram again.... Why do you need the contacters? I thought the SSR could handle switching the power on and off to the elements.
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It could be worse.

 
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Old 01-17-2013, 10:09 PM   #6
russki
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Dec 2011
Chicagoland, IL
Posts: 141
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Quote:
Originally Posted by nutty_gnome View Post
I'm probably showing my ignorance... but why didn't you go with a bigger SSR for each circuit? Wouldn't that eliminate the need for the contacters?

Edit - let me rephrase after I looked at the diagram again.... Why do you need the contacters? I thought the SSR could handle switching the power on and off to the elements.
They allow me to control power to the elements using lighted switches from Auber. Since these switches are only rated at 10A, they operate contactors' coils, which in turn switch power to the elements. Basically a safety feature, because SSRs can fail in a closed state.

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Old 01-18-2013, 02:57 AM   #7
TJTHEBEST
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Dec 2009
Arcata, Ca
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Looking good!

 
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Old 01-18-2013, 02:58 AM   #8
Inkleg
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Nice build russki, can't wait to see pictures of it in action.

 
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Old 01-18-2013, 03:22 AM   #9
russki
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Dec 2011
Chicagoland, IL
Posts: 141
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Inkleg View Post
Nice build russki, can't wait to see pictures of it in action.
Quote:
Originally Posted by TJTHEBEST View Post
Looking good!
I see you guys found my thread on HBT

 
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Old 01-18-2013, 03:49 AM   #10
iijakii
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Jun 2010
Portland-ish, OR
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Looks great. I'd love to see a shot of it with the basket in if you don't mind.

 
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