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Old 01-23-2013, 07:01 PM   #21
slakwhere
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Dec 2009
Salt Lake City, Utah
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there wasn't much of that plug left when i was done drilling. i drilled it in place, installed in the box.



 
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Old 01-24-2013, 12:22 AM   #22
doughaas
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Mar 2009
, Ohio
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I'm using a single gang box mounted to my kettle. I did it the way kal (www.theelectricbrewery.com) did it except it's not hard wired - I mounted a gasketed leviton inlet to the side opposite the kettle. I had to use a single gang extension ring to make everything fit but it sure is nice being able to remove the cord without removing the box.

Search amazon for Leviton 4937 for the face plate I used. I think it was around $10.


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Old 01-28-2013, 03:34 AM   #23
theQ
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Oct 2012
La Crosse, Wisconsin
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I've been doing this today with the smaller box as I posted earlier.
During the implementation I started wondering about the need for two plates, front and back. Anyone knows what the rational for that ?

So if the original hole is plugged the 2 1/4 wholesaw cut is not needed, gluing, no threading, I think there is plenty of room to wire the element. Anyhow too late for me since I did cut the boxes.

Oh, Very cool Doughass! I like the fact that the keg don't have the cord attached...

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I'm using a single gang box mounted to my kettle. I did it the way kal

 
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Old 01-28-2013, 07:42 PM   #24
rcm_rx7
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Mar 2009
Moscow, ID
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I mounted my element on the front plate, so it backwards from what everyone else is doing. No need to drill a hole in the box, only on the plate. I just use a plug on the back hole.
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Old 01-28-2013, 08:06 PM   #25
theQ
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Oct 2012
La Crosse, Wisconsin
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I know! Not sure why people do it that way. it's too late for me now but its much better that way!

 
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Old 01-28-2013, 08:35 PM   #26
slakwhere
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Dec 2009
Salt Lake City, Utah
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i mounted mine to the box for a safety reason: with the cover off there's still cover on the element for accidental contact.

how the heck do you get the screws through the plate since they mount from the side facing the keg?

 
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Old 01-28-2013, 09:59 PM   #27
doughaas
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, Ohio
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I mounted mine the way I did (back of the box toward the kettle) so that I could mount an inlet on the front and have a removable power cord.

I imagine to close it from the front you wire it all up and put the element through the blank with a 1-1/4 hole. You could then put on the o-ring or gasket on the element threads and close the box before pulling it by the element through a hole in the kettle. You could then put on the nut and tighten with a wrench while holding the element with pliers to prevent too much twisting. The only problem I imagine is wires coming loose if you twist it the element and not the box.

That sounds like the most elegant solution so far if you're ok with an attached cord. I'd be tempted to put a short little pigtail out rather than a long cord.

The only downside is difficulty in accessing the element to fix a problem or look for leaks. I suppose you could pull out a plug to check for leaks.

I have another box to build and may just try this method.

 
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Old 01-28-2013, 10:38 PM   #28
rcm_rx7
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Mar 2009
Moscow, ID
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Quote:
Originally Posted by doughaas View Post
I mounted mine the way I did (back of the box toward the kettle) so that I could mount an inlet on the front and have a removable power cord.

I imagine to close it from the front you wire it all up and put the element through the blank with a 1-1/4 hole. You could then put on the o-ring or gasket on the element threads and close the box before pulling it by the element through a hole in the kettle. You could then put on the nut and tighten with a wrench while holding the element with pliers to prevent too much twisting. The only problem I imagine is wires coming loose if you twist it the element and not the box.

That sounds like the most elegant solution so far if you're ok with an attached cord. I'd be tempted to put a short little pigtail out rather than a long cord.

The only downside is difficulty in accessing the element to fix a problem or look for leaks. I suppose you could pull out a plug to check for leaks.

I have another box to build and may just try this method.
That's exactly how I did it, the box is sealed up with the element threads sticking out and oring slid over. The first few runs I left a plug out so I could look for leaks, never saw one. If I need to make a change or fix something ill take the element out of the kettle, it's easier to work on that way.


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Fermentation Chamber Project
Wooden Brewstand Build

 
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