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Old 02-03-2013, 06:06 PM   #81
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Did you squeeze the grains or do a sparge? I still have some tweaking to do on my system. My last batch was way under the OG I was hoping for. I like the recirculating idea and might steal your idea if my efficiency doesn't get more consistant.
I used the plate that Chad made and squeezed. I got a lot more sweet wort when I did that. I let it drip some more and then added that in during the boil.


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Old 02-03-2013, 11:04 PM   #82
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Did you squeeze the grains or do a sparge? I still have some tweaking to do on my system. My last batch was way under the OG I was hoping for. I like the recirculating idea and might steal your idea if my efficiency doesn't get more consistant.
You'll still have to deal with the heat loss that he suffered. May want to look into a RIMS tube then. I sent metallhed the start of my control box, they aren't that difficult to build after you sit down and look at some wiring diagrams.


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Old 02-04-2013, 02:08 PM   #83
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You'll still have to deal with the heat loss that he suffered. May want to look into a RIMS tube then. I sent metallhed the start of my control box, they aren't that difficult to build after you sit down and look at some wiring diagrams.
Since I'm brewing on a 1800w induction plate I was thinking of turning it on low and circulate with a pump to maintain temps.

I was actually pretty surprised that my mash only dropped 2 degrees in 60 min in my kettle with the lid on and I didn't even turn the heat on. Maybe I don't even need the pump and just keep it simple.
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Old 02-04-2013, 04:10 PM   #84
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Since I'm brewing on a 1800w induction plate I was thinking of turning it on low and circulate with a pump to maintain temps.

I was actually pretty surprised that my mash only dropped 2 degrees in 60 min in my kettle with the lid on and I didn't even turn the heat on. Maybe I don't even need the pump and just keep it simple.
Nah make it complicated I forgot about your induction plate. If you really wanted you could wire up a pid to that and have it turn the hot plate on and off when the temp gets low. Put the temp sensor in that open bung on your kettle.
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Old 02-04-2013, 04:44 PM   #85
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Originally Posted by wobdee View Post
Since I'm brewing on a 1800w induction plate I was thinking of turning it on low and circulate with a pump to maintain temps.

I was actually pretty surprised that my mash only dropped 2 degrees in 60 min in my kettle with the lid on and I didn't even turn the heat on. Maybe I don't even need the pump and just keep it simple.
What size batches do you do with the 1800 induction plate and what kind of times to reach boil? I'd think that size is right on the margin. Do you insulate your kettle at all?
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Old 02-04-2013, 05:24 PM   #86
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What size batches do you do with the 1800 induction plate and what kind of times to reach boil? I'd think that size is right on the margin. Do you insulate your kettle at all?
I do 2.5 gal brews so I end up boiling down 3-4 gal. I did a 6 gl boil test when I first got it and it took an hour to get it up to boil. I also need to keep the lid on to keep a good rolling boil. No insulation yet but I've been thinking about it.
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Old 02-04-2013, 05:25 PM   #87
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Nah make it complicated I forgot about your induction plate. If you really wanted you could wire up a pid to that and have it turn the hot plate on and off when the temp gets low. Put the temp sensor in that open bung on your kettle.
Good idea
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Old 02-05-2013, 05:41 AM   #88
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Nah make it complicated I forgot about your induction plate. If you really wanted you could wire up a pid to that and have it turn the hot plate on and off when the temp gets low. Put the temp sensor in that open bung on your kettle.
Don't listen to Dustin.. he makes everything complicated!
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Old 02-05-2013, 02:57 PM   #89
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Good idea
No, bad idea. Induction plates have controller boards, they aren't like heating elements. Once you cut the power to the plate, you kill the controller board. When it cuts back on, you'll have to wait for it to complete it's start up cycle, then put the set point temperature back in. You could attempt to replace the controller board entirely, but you'd have to design a PID that can drive a PWM circuit that will in turn drive a MOSFET into some scary current ranges for the home tinkerer (around 100A p-p). Also, you'll find that the magnetic field generated sometimes can do weird things to your thermometer and make accurate readings difficult.

Source: I tried working on this problem for 6 months before giving up.
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Old 02-05-2013, 03:15 PM   #90
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No, bad idea. Induction plates have controller boards, they aren't like heating elements. Once you cut the power to the plate, you kill the controller board. When it cuts back on, you'll have to wait for it to complete it's start up cycle, then put the set point temperature back in. You could attempt to replace the controller board entirely, but you'd have to design a PID that can drive a PWM circuit that will in turn drive a MOSFET into some scary current ranges for the home tinkerer (around 100A p-p). Also, you'll find that the magnetic field generated sometimes can do weird things to your thermometer and make accurate readings difficult.

Source: I tried working on this problem for 6 months before giving up.
Good to know, thanks, I think I'll stick with the KISS method.


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