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Old 01-10-2013, 06:53 PM   #11
whoaru99
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I would re-terminate all those push-on connections. Don't believe the intent is to smash them down after they're pushed onto the mating terminals. The spring tension, for lack of better terms, of the push-ons in their normal, non-smashed state is what's relied on for the contact. Don't care much for push-on terminals in (relatively) high current applications, myself.
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Old 01-10-2013, 07:19 PM   #12
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What is the current/voltage rating on those black connectors you have there?
What kinds of plugs are these?

In a different picture it looks like they're connected to a 50A breaker, but I've never seen a 50A receptacle with only push/crimp on connectors like this, especially ones that are so close together, almost touching.

Normally a NEMA 14-50R receptacle (meant for 50A/240V) is really big, with screw connection points that are well spaced out.

Here's a typical NEMA 14-50R receptacle that you'd use for a kitchen stove outlet:





You push the wire in and screw down tightly.

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Old 01-10-2013, 07:36 PM   #13
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Read all about the Switchcraft connectors here: http://www.homebrewtalk.com/f170/swi...option-369044/
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Old 01-10-2013, 07:50 PM   #14
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A 2000 watt element on 120v requires at least 12 gauge wire and should be plugged into 20amp components. 1875 is the max rating on the shock buster, you exceeded it. That plug is for 15amps and therefore the connections are only build to accept 14 gauge wire. I'd start over. Get some decent 12/3 SJ cord.

By the way, the ranco is only rated for 15amps resistive on 120v so that's overloaded too.
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Old 01-10-2013, 07:52 PM   #15
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Quote:
Originally Posted by whoaru99 View Post
Read all about the Switchcraft connectors here: http://www.homebrewtalk.com/f170/swi...option-369044/
Ah! Ok. So they're the (somewhat controversal for AC mains use) Switchcraft connectors.

I don't like seeing uncovered spade terminals used with that amount of heavy gauge wiring coming off them. Bend one of the wires somewhere either on purpose because you're moving something in the box (or bang into it or drop it) and you could have a couple of spades touch.

My 2 cents but I'm starting to change the topic...

Kal

 
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Old 01-10-2013, 08:24 PM   #16
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Note to would be e-brewers: do not disregard the following statement which occurs in some form or other in probably every single e-brewing thread here:

"Do not load your components past 80% of their amperage rating!"

Loading to 120% on more than one component is ridiculous, come on.

 
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Old 01-10-2013, 08:31 PM   #17
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Quote:
Originally Posted by kal View Post
Ah! Ok. So they're the (somewhat controversal for AC mains use) Switchcraft connectors.

I don't like seeing uncovered spade terminals used with that amount of heavy gauge wiring coming off them. Bend one of the wires somewhere either on purpose because you're moving something in the box (or bang into it or drop it) and you could have a couple of spades touch.

My 2 cents but I'm starting to change the topic...

Kal
Those are professional loudspeaker connectors, not really intended for continuous current draw applications. They are usually rated for a peak amperage draw but that is not necessarily the rating for continuous draw as speaker amplifiers are generally not putting out a continuous steady signal under normal operation. You can find lots of specs on them on their originators website Neutrik

http://www.neutrik.com/en/speakon/

I probably have a thousand of those in different flavors in my shop, they are great for speakers, I wouldn't use them so much for high current home appliances. Neutrik does make a line of similar power connectors called PowerCon but not in a 4 pole 50A 208VAC flavor.
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Old 01-10-2013, 09:45 PM   #18
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Kaz View Post
Those are professional loudspeaker connectors, not really intended for continuous current draw applications. They are usually rated for a peak amperage draw but that is not necessarily the rating for continuous draw as speaker amplifiers are generally not putting out a continuous steady signal under normal operation. You can find lots of specs on them on their originators website Neutrik

http://www.neutrik.com/en/speakon/

I probably have a thousand of those in different flavors in my shop, they are great for speakers, I wouldn't use them so much for high current home appliances. Neutrik does make a line of similar power connectors called PowerCon but not in a 4 pole 50A 208VAC flavor.
There is much discussion around this in the other thread referenced. The Switchcrafts do have different ratings than the Neutriks. From what I gather, they will handle the load, but connecting or disconnecting while powered on is highly discouraged. I am intrigued by them, but will probably go with something less "controversial" when I finally get the time and the funds to build.

 
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Old 01-10-2013, 11:51 PM   #19
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Thanks everyone. I'm making some adjustments and will report back but I have a quick question. What is the best way to ground to the pot. I have some stainless steel nuts and bolts but how do I prevent leaks?

JB weld?
Rubber washer?
Silicone tape?
Other ideas?

 
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Old 01-11-2013, 12:17 AM   #20
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Quote:
Originally Posted by mr_tripp View Post
Thanks everyone. I'm making some adjustments and will report back but I have a quick question. What is the best way to ground to the pot. I have some stainless steel nuts and bolts but how do I prevent leaks?

JB weld?
Rubber washer?
Silicone tape?
Other ideas?
drill a hole near the top and bolt it in there with a nut and lock washer and ring terminal, or put the hole in the handle if it is solid to the pot.
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