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Old 01-10-2013, 06:03 PM   #11
WickedWortBrewing
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Dec 2012
Posts: 10

Another thing to remember is that many of the off the shelf units have a cooling fan that needs to run once you power off the unit. I'd be hesitant that an automatic temp control system that is continuously cycling the power on/off could damage the unit over time since it would not allow the fan to run once you've turned the heat off



 
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Old 01-10-2013, 06:09 PM   #12
WickedWortBrewing
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Dec 2012
Posts: 10

Also forgot to mention that we too are using propane for boiling. Induction is for the heat exchanger and sparge only. That way we can mash and sparge indoors and do the boil outside on the deck if it is cold out.



 
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Old 01-11-2013, 07:58 PM   #13
Protto
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Aug 2011
Vangsnes, Norway
Posts: 37
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Quote:
Originally Posted by kickrjason View Post
Photos please......!!
Sorry but I can only give you this link. At the moment my internet connection is so slow I can't upload anything. And the link is in norwegian, you could try google translate if you're interested.

http://norbrygg.no/forum/index.php/topic,3062.0.html

I use a 80qt pot that is compatible with induction. When I boil wort i use 1400 or 1600w on each of the tree units. That gives around 10% boil off in an hour, mabe a little bit more.
I have 30 batches on it. It's made og MDF (yepp, wood fiberboards), and the only thing I'd like to change is I'd like to have one big hardend glass plate on top, because 6Kw WILL boil over 12 gallons in a 20 gallon pot.

 
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Old 01-31-2013, 04:53 PM   #14
ercousin
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Jan 2013
Toronto, Ontario
Posts: 32
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This might help clarify the issue:

Northern Brewing Article saying it is possible to boil 6 gallons on 1800 W:

http://www.northernbrewer.com/connec...ction-brewing/


Email from Bayou Classic saying their pots are induction ready:

"Hey <ercousin>, thanks for contacting us. Yes, all of our SS pots are induction ready. The Try-ly bottom is not totally necessary but is nice and does help depending on the the load going into your stock pot.

Let us know if you have any other questions.

Have a great rest of the week!

Cheers!

Cary Hanson
President
BayouClassicOutlet.com"

 
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Old 10-14-2014, 04:58 PM   #15
markklug
HBT_SUPPORTER.png
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Jun 2012
Newport News, VA
Posts: 86
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Quote:
Originally Posted by pjj2ba View Post
I use two. One to direct fire my mash tun - I almost always do step mashes since this makes it so easy - zero scorching issues running full tilt. I have a second that I use to heat my sparge water. The typical consumer models don't have the power to do a full boil for a 5 gal. batch. I use a propane burner for that. One could easily boil a 3 gal batch though (I've gone that big for tomato sauce)

I can do the mash for a 10 gal batch though, but typically do 5 gal batches
I'm contemplating the exact setup you mention with two hot plates. I currently use two burners on my stove for mash and sparge water then carry it to a propane burner to boil. Is the diameter of your mash tun larger than the heating circle of the hot plate? That seems to be the only issue I can't solve so far; fininding a single electric burner that a 13.5 inch diameter pot will sit on to heat(size of my mash tun).........

 
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Old 10-14-2014, 09:24 PM   #16
sumbrewindude
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Nov 2013
, Wisconsin
Posts: 880
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I use an 1800W one for 3gal full boil batches. It will boil 4gal, though it's not vicious. It might boil 5gal, but it'll take a while to get there. I just can't see it being able to boil 6gal.

Go to the electric section and see the induction thread, lots of folks are using induction - some brewing 10gal, 5gal, or like me at 3 or less.


__________________
Primaries: Honey wheat lager, English Cream Ale
Kegged and serving: MADRE, PATER, HAGIS
On Deck: All Brews Subject to Change With No Reason - loving small batch brewing, session beers, AND Kegging!

 
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