Will 1/4" bore shank be a problem with 5/16" beer line? - Home Brew Forums
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Old 01-09-2013, 01:45 AM   #1
a1lawng
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After calculating resistance for the tap system I'm about to set up, I'm going to have to use 5/16" lines. Does anyone see a problem with using a shank with a 1/4" bore at the tap end of the line? Will the sudden drop in size at the very end of the line cause foaming or anything? I have seen one 5/16" bore shank but it wasn't all stainless and I'm trying to stick with SS.

 
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Old 01-09-2013, 01:59 AM   #2
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Maybe putting a few feet of choker hose in front of the shank would be a good idea?

How long a run & elevation are you looking at?

Cheers!

 
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Old 01-09-2013, 02:58 AM   #3
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8-10 feet elevation gain and balancing calculations tell me to use a 16 ft. line, but I haven't taken the shank resistance into account yet.

 
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Old 01-09-2013, 03:24 AM   #4
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I expect the shank and faucet resistance would be negligible in the face of a 10 foot lift...

Cheers!

 
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Old 01-09-2013, 02:07 PM   #5
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Wasn't thinking of the effect on the overall resistance as much as how it will affect the pour since it's a sudden spike in resistance just before the beer leaves the tap. Think it will mean foamy beer? Maybe there's only one way to find out...

 
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Old 01-09-2013, 03:42 PM   #6
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Quote:
Originally Posted by a1lawng View Post
Wasn't thinking of the effect on the overall resistance as much as how it will affect the pour since it's a sudden spike in resistance just before the beer leaves the tap. Think it will mean foamy beer? Maybe there's only one way to find out...
You can take that potential problem out of the equation by using chokers...

Cheers!

 
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Old 01-09-2013, 03:48 PM   #7
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I have to ask... WHY are you going with 5/16" ID beer line??? Normal beer line is 3/16" ID. Which also matches up with the bore in shanks to connect to faucets. IMO, going with the large ID beer line is a big mistake. I'd also toss out what the calculation tool is telling you. At least 90% of the time, it's dead wrong. The rest of the time, it's just a loose guide that rarely actually works. I'm using 10' long, 3/16" ID beer lines and pushing beer with 10-14psi through them. On the lower end of the range, it takes a few more seconds to pour a pint. That's the only difference.
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Old 01-09-2013, 04:00 PM   #8
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Quote:
I have to ask... WHY are you going with 5/16" ID beer line???
Hi, Golddiggie. I calculated my line diameter and length by using the equation in the Beer Line Length and Elevation section of this web page.

My keg fridge will be in my basement, so there's lift to think about. If I follow the equation I end up having to use 5/16" instead of something smaller. Is your keg far below your tap as mine will be? The link above says that elevation gain requires 1 psi for every 2 feet, so I'll need 3.5 or 4 psi just to fight gravity (before also compensating for resistance).

 
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Old 01-09-2013, 04:07 PM   #9
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Quote:
Originally Posted by a1lawng View Post
Hi, Golddiggie. I calculated my line diameter and length by using the equation in the Beer Line Length and Elevation section of this web page.

My keg fridge will be in my basement, so there's lift to think about. If I follow the equation I end up having to use 5/16" instead of something smaller. Is your keg far below your tap as mine will be? The link above says that elevation gain requires 1 psi for every 2 feet, so I'll need 3.5 or 4 psi just to fight gravity (before also compensating for resistance).
I would go with 3/16" line first. As mentioned, a great many of us have found the equation is bunk.

I also hope you've found a way to keep the lines cooled to the same temp as the keg fridge inside. If not, you've got some bigger issues to combat. While it can be ok without any chilling right now, once the warmer months come up, you'll have that issue to face.

BTW, my brew fridge is in the kitchen. The house owner (I'm renting) had a new fridge put in, that didn't fit where the original one went. So there was a space, with power right there. My 10 cubic foot brew fridge fits it really well. I even have space above it to put some things. Besides, when I'm on the second floor (where my home office/tech central is located) it's better to only go to the first floor. I wouldn't want to run the beer lines from the basement, due to several other concerns. I might be building up a secondary keg chiller for down there. But, that will be for my bigger brews (at least 8.5% ABV) that will not be consumed as often or as much volume.
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Old 01-09-2013, 08:21 PM   #10
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A 16 ft trunk line has to be chilled somehow, either forced-air or glycol power-pack, or you will have foaming issues for sure.

 
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