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Home Brew Forums > Home Brewing Beer > All Grain & Partial Mash Brewing > My idea for a mash tun-please dont laugh
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Old 01-03-2013, 10:42 PM   #11
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I was thinking a big sawblade for the lid.
I don't know what to think here. I either LOVE the thought of this thing or want it wiped off the face of the planet for being an abomination to God and nature!!!


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Old 01-03-2013, 10:45 PM   #12
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Sort of sounds like you're doing a brew in a bag method. The grain bed will act as a filter. After the mash perioed drain a few quarts of the wort into a jug, do this until the wort is no longer full of grain husks, debris. Gently pour these runnings back into the mash tun. Once the wort runs clear of the debris, drain it to the boil kettle. Same procedure when you add the sparge water. Try to keep the mash temp where you want it. Sparging you can do cold with no ill effect.
You mean I could just start sparging right away, or as soon as needed, to keep the temp, right? And no ill effects?


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Old 01-03-2013, 10:48 PM   #13
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You mean I could just start sparging right away, or as soon as needed, to keep the temp, right? And no ill effects?
No, I don't think that's what he was saying. You will need to let it sit to get it to convert. Then, you can use his technique to drain the mash and proceed with a batch sparge.
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Old 01-03-2013, 10:51 PM   #14
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If you can wrap and cover it with foam/towels/bubble wrap/etc, it would be semi-insulated. You'd probably need to check the temp every so often and add a little boiling water to readjust, so mash on the thick side to start. The obvious downside is that you can't ever show it off to anyone without them subconsciously humming the theme from Deliverance, but I have a corona mill and my false bottom is a $2 sink strainer, so I salute your ingenuity.
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Old 01-03-2013, 10:54 PM   #15
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I know I'm not supposed to ask, but I really want to see a picture of this...
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Old 01-03-2013, 10:55 PM   #16
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After the mash (usually that is an hour). is over. Do a vorluaf (recirculating the wort to clear it up) Drain these first running into a boil pot. Then mix in sparge water to the grain, do the recirculation to get the husk and crap out and drain to the kettle. Cold sparging has been proven to work fine. The initial mash temp needs to be maintained so the heat triggered enzymes can convert the starches in the grain to fermentable sugars. 150- 160 degrees. Try shooting for around 150-155 degrees F. That temp will convert the grain well and still leave some non fermetable sugars which will give the beer body. Later on, once you understand your set-up you'll know how to dial in the temp more accurately.
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Old 01-03-2013, 10:55 PM   #17
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No, I don't think that's what he was saying. You will need to let it sit to get it to convert. Then, you can use his technique to drain the mash and proceed with a batch sparge.
Thanks, okay, I see. Terms/lingo gets me a little mixed up sometimes.
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Old 01-03-2013, 10:57 PM   #18
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After the mash (usually that is an hour). is over. Do a vorluaf (recirculating the wort to clear it up) Drain these first running into a boil pot. Then mix in sparge water to the grain, do the recirculation to get the husk and crap out and drain to the kettle. Cold sparging has been proven to work fine. The initial mash temp needs to be maintained so the heat triggered enzymes can convert the starches in the grain to fermentable sugars. 150- 160 degrees. Try shooting for around 150-155 degrees F. That temp will convert the grain well and still leave some non fermetable sugars which will give the beer body. Later on, once you understand your set-up you'll know how to dial in the temp more accurately.
I'll just go ahead and save this info to read again in the morning.
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Old 01-03-2013, 10:58 PM   #19
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BobbiL

You might want to just try BIAB method. You obviously have the skill to sew a big bag. Then you only need one big pot to mash and brew in.
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Old 01-03-2013, 11:04 PM   #20
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edit: ahh, it's a stainless steel sink. Figure out a way to direct fire that thing without melting your outlet tubing, treat it like a big metal mashtun.
There we go... now I'm thinking... Would have to fire it from the sides, since the tubing comes out the bottom... hmmm... this thing might end up getting even uglier!


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