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Old 01-03-2013, 08:40 PM   #11
johnp
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Quote:
Originally Posted by BadNewsBrewery
You can do anything you want with those wires - make them into a 120v circuit, a 220v circuit, pull them out and make a wire-frame unicorn... the limits are endless.

But what I think you're asking is, will it work using the existing wiring and the existing 30A breakers. If the wiring is 10GA, then yes. You would run the black and the white as Hot A and Hot B, and the bare wire as ground.
Can I run the black and white as hots, and the bare as neutral?



 
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Old 01-03-2013, 09:02 PM   #12
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That fits into the same category as making unicorns. Sure, you could do it, but it's not very smart. If you're asking those kinds of questions, you may want to hire someone to install this for you as it sounds like you're closer to burning your house down / killing yourself than you think.


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Old 01-03-2013, 09:07 PM   #13
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Quote:
Originally Posted by BadNewsBrewery
That fits into the same category as making unicorns. Sure, you could do it, but it's not very smart. If you're asking those kinds of questions, you may want to hire someone to install this for you as it sounds like you're closer to burning your house down / killing yourself than you think.
I'll do that, thank you

 
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Old 01-03-2013, 09:28 PM   #14
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Those "look" like 12 gage wires, but they could be 14's. You do have a couple options, but selection of one will limit they other. For instance, if you go the 120V option, that limits you to 2400W, but would have a neutral and ground. Go the 240V option, then you would have double the watts, but not neutral.

The pump needs a neutral. Depends what type of heating element you use, but the one you mentioned (5500W) needs (2) hots and a ground (no neutral). However, the draw (5500W) is way over what you have.

Regardless, like BadNews said, get a local Sparky to come over and give you some advice. Never know, it may be a short run to get the power you really need.

 
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Old 01-03-2013, 09:49 PM   #15
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Sparky
Those "look" like 12 gage wires, but they could be 14's. You do have a couple options, but selection of one will limit they other. For instance, if you go the 120V option, that limits you to 2400W, but would have a neutral and ground. Go the 240V option, then you would have double the watts, but not neutral.

The pump needs a neutral. Depends what type of heating element you use, but the one you mentioned (5500W) needs (2) hots and a ground (no neutral). However, the draw (5500W) is way over what you have.

Regardless, like BadNews said, get a local Sparky to come over and give you some advice. Never know, it may be a short run to get the power you really need.
Thanks sparky!

 
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Old 01-04-2013, 02:19 PM   #16
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There is also a difference between a 30 amp breaker and a 30 amp 220 breaker the 220 needs to be drawing from both poles of your house service
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Old 01-04-2013, 02:27 PM   #17
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I think the pic is deceiving. I think they are 10g. You can either measure the thickness of the copper itself or get to the sheath to see the print on it.
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Old 01-04-2013, 02:39 PM   #18
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Quote:
Originally Posted by johnp View Post
Can I run the black and white as hots, and the bare as neutral?
No you can't (or, more precisely, shouldn't) but what you can do is obtain a control transformer sufficient to run any 120 V loads you may wish to have and derive a 120V circuit from that. Safe and code compliant. If you do this you must mark the white wire at each end (panel and box) with red tape or some other means so that some guy in the future knows its not a neutral (white).

 
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Old 01-04-2013, 03:24 PM   #19
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Quote:
Originally Posted by redman67 View Post
There is also a difference between a 30 amp breaker and a 30 amp 220 breaker the 220 needs to be drawing from both poles of your house service
True that there is such a thing as a 30A single-pole (i.e., 120V) breaker, but they're pretty uncommon. I can't think of a household application for one, actually.

 
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Old 01-04-2013, 04:41 PM   #20
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Bobby_M View Post
I think the pic is deceiving. I think they are 10g. You can either measure the thickness of the copper itself or get to the sheath to see the print on it.
You are correct. Checked with a wire stripper.

Quote:
Originally Posted by ajdelange View Post
No you can't (or, more precisely, shouldn't) but what you can do is obtain a control transformer sufficient to run any 120 V loads you may wish to have and derive a 120V circuit from that. Safe and code compliant. If you do this you must mark the white wire at each end (panel and box) with red tape or some other means so that some guy in the future knows its not a neutral (white).
Thanks for that workaround. I'll ask my electrician about that.



 
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