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Old 02-03-2013, 05:08 PM   #51
cupido76
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Apr 2011
Calgary, Alberta
Posts: 71
Liked 1 Times on 1 Posts


Quote:
Originally Posted by smittygouv30 View Post
Thanks for the response. I just got it figured out. I ended up getting it to work the same way kal does on his site with a washer around the silicone o-ring. I'm not sure what i was doing wrong yesterday but it kept leaking. To be safe I really plastered the silicone all around the inside of the conduit box. I'll let it sit overnight with 10 gallons of water in it and look for any signs of leaking. If all is well i'll try my luck with the wiring before the superbowl.

http://theelectricbrewery.com/heating-elements?page=7

Corey
If you leave water around your element that long, you might start to get some rust forming on the plated base that the heater cool is attached to.

 
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Old 02-03-2013, 05:15 PM   #52
smittygouv30
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Sep 2011
Fayetteville, NC
Posts: 335
Liked 19 Times on 17 Posts


Quote:
Originally Posted by cupido76 View Post
If you leave water around your element that long, you might start to get some rust forming on the plated base that the heater cool is attached to.
Ohhhh, thanks for the heads up. Maybe me not being patient is actually a good thing is come cases. The most I could wait was about 2-3 hours. There was no signs of leaking at that point so I dumped the water and went ahead with the silicone and wiring last night.

Good looking out though, I didn't realize this. It's certainly a good tip for the future.

Corey

 
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Old 02-24-2013, 10:55 PM   #53
ssimkins
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Nov 2011
Hemet, CA
Posts: 42

Almost done. A couple of the labels are wrong but most likely will be ordering new ones from a professional label company. I don't quite like the way these turned out. My dad did all of this so I don't have any place to complain. He is the man! Still waiting on the breaker for my house panel and we will be almost ready to brew!
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Old 02-25-2013, 01:58 AM   #54
smittygouv30
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Sep 2011
Fayetteville, NC
Posts: 335
Liked 19 Times on 17 Posts


Can I borrow your dad for a couple days? Its looking good man. You are definitely going to finish before me! Keep us posted on your maiden voyage.

I used http://www.signsbannerstags.ca/ it's the same site that kal used in his build. George was great and got my tags done quickly. It was $33.50 for 21 custom tags. Definitely worth every penny.

What do you think of the switchcraft plug/receptacles? What pumps are you using?

-Corey
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Hop Rehab Electric Brewery

Keg 1: The Electric S'more Stout
Keg 2: Sorachi Ace Clone
Keg 3: Bourbon Barrel Porter
Keg 4: Two-hearted Ale clone

Primary: Empty
Secondary: Lemongrass Wheat Kolsch

 
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Old 02-25-2013, 02:08 AM   #55
smittygouv30
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Sep 2011
Fayetteville, NC
Posts: 335
Liked 19 Times on 17 Posts


Here is a shot of some of the tags I'm using just in case you wanted proof that the tags are decent. Let me know if you have any questions.

-Corey
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Hop Rehab Electric Brewery

Keg 1: The Electric S'more Stout
Keg 2: Sorachi Ace Clone
Keg 3: Bourbon Barrel Porter
Keg 4: Two-hearted Ale clone

Primary: Empty
Secondary: Lemongrass Wheat Kolsch

 
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Old 03-30-2013, 11:05 PM   #56
ssimkins
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Nov 2011
Hemet, CA
Posts: 42

Well, I am getting really close to finishing this thing. For some reason one of the simplest things I cant figure out, my temp probe switch and wiring is not working. Would you guys be able to enlighten me on how I should be wiring the selector switch that changes from each of the temp probes (HLT and BK, both K type).

I will post some pics soon!

Thanks!
Sean

 
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Old 04-03-2013, 05:36 PM   #57
ssimkins
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Nov 2011
Hemet, CA
Posts: 42

I'm wondering since I'm not getting any responses, that it might not be possible. If anybody can confirm or deny, I would really appreciate it! I have hit a wall.

Thanks!

 
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Old 04-03-2013, 05:41 PM   #58
ssimkins
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Nov 2011
Hemet, CA
Posts: 42

Some pics of the panel with tags.
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Old 04-03-2013, 07:25 PM   #59
BadNewsBrewery
 
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Oct 2012
Severn, MD
Posts: 1,248
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I haven't chimed in because I'm not really 100% sure, but here's my thought. A K-Type is a thermocouple. It has two distinct types of metal that, when heated or cooled, alter the resistance in the thermocouple. They work because you calibrate them to your system based on a set length, gauge, and type of cable. If you run them through a switch, now you're altering the type and length of cable between the thermocouples, which results in the system having no idea what it's measuring and the thermocouples not working. If you want to have a switch that will allow you to go from one temp probe to another, my suggestion would be to get 2 RTD probes and a switch with 3NO and 3NC terminal blocks. Run one RTD to the NOs, run the other to the NCs, and make sure you keep the wires in the same order from both RTDs. Then jumper the terminal blocks on the non-RTD side, and run 1 wire for each pair of blocks to your PID. Confusing the way I wrote it, I know, but it should allow you to switch between the two.

Or... save yourself the headache, get a plug end on the panel like most people on here use, and just physically switch out the RTDs when you want to swap temperatures.

Short story - probably won't work with K type... (or, I'm an idiot).
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2015 - 72gal

 
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Old 04-04-2013, 03:13 AM   #60
ssimkins
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Nov 2011
Hemet, CA
Posts: 42

Thanks! That actually does make sense. I'll probably just hook one of my sockets directly to the PID and switch between the two probes by unplugging/plugging, as you suggested. That's a bummer since I already put in the switch. Maybe I can think of another use for it.


I really appreciate the input!

I will keep you guys updated, I am really close to finishing this thing. I sprung a leak in my HLT where the element is, so I ordered high temp silicone so I can seal it up for good.


Thanks!!
Sean

 
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