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Old 12-31-2012, 04:30 PM   #11
shtank
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Quote:
Originally Posted by jeffmeh View Post
Why a 24V coil for the contactor as opposed to a 120V or 240V coil? Do you have a need for a transformer in your control panel?

The switch listed on ebay does not list the voltage (or I missed it).
I though it was.
So basically I just need 240v 40A contactor for that switch?

 
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Old 12-31-2012, 05:15 PM   #12
slakwhere
 
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i assumed he was using them since they are usually cheaper than the 240v coil variety. but i guess i should have said something.

if possible you for sure want a 120v coil or a 240v coil for the contactor. and the contacts should be rated for 240v 20a or higher. for a few bucks more, i'd raise the rating of the contacts.

 
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Old 01-01-2013, 09:08 PM   #13
shtank
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Ok so my biggest hang up is using 240v vs 120v Every thing I read seems to talk about 120v if I copy Kol's wiring, Will I need a transformer for the indicator light? or should I just not use a light?



Will this same setup work with my 240v 20Amp service?

I can use 120v if you think it would be easier.

Thanks again for all the help I am learning as I go and promise not to plug this thing in to the wall until further review.

 
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Old 01-01-2013, 09:38 PM   #14
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120v uses 1 hot, 1 neutral and 1 ground (which you are STILL ignoring).

240v uses 2 hot, 1 neutral and 1 ground. the 2 hot lines are basically alternating phase 120v. take either hot leg, a neutral and a ground and you get 120v. take 2 hot, a neutral and you get 240v.

this diagram will not work for 240v. you do not understand how 240v works. you're missing 2 inputs to the plug, there's no ground. i have no idea why that 50a shunt is there. there's no heating element in the diagram, so this is a really elaborate switch that turns on a light bulb.

please, for the love of pete, find a buddy who has an electronics background to help you locally. you're missing a LOT of stuff. you're going to burn your house down, electrocute yourself or blow up a lot of gear. most probably all 3.

 
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Old 01-02-2013, 04:52 PM   #15
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Quote:
Originally Posted by slakwhere View Post
120v uses 1 hot, 1 neutral and 1 ground (which you are STILL ignoring).

240v uses 2 hot, 1 neutral and 1 ground. the 2 hot lines are basically alternating phase 120v. take either hot leg, a neutral and a ground and you get 120v. take 2 hot, a neutral and you get 240v.

this diagram will not work for 240v. you do not understand how 240v works. you're missing 2 inputs to the plug, there's no ground. i have no idea why that 50a shunt is there. there's no heating element in the diagram, so this is a really elaborate switch that turns on a light bulb.

please, for the love of pete, find a buddy who has an electronics background to help you locally. you're missing a LOT of stuff. you're going to burn your house down, electrocute yourself or blow up a lot of gear. most probably all 3.
Actually, 240v does not have a neutral, as 2 hots will do, with a ground for safety. I absolutely agree with your last point though. The OP really should not be undertaking this without a much better understanding of the workings.

OP, if you keep studying Kal's site, and you get to the point where you really understand how it works and why it is wired the way it is, then consider undertaking the project. Otherwise, get some help (and it's never a bad idea to get a second pair of eyes, in any case).

Lastly, the picture you included is one of Kal's intermediate wiring steps. E.g., it does not show the seocnd hot leg, as at that point in the instructions he had yet to connect it.

 
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Old 01-02-2013, 05:08 PM   #16
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it doesn't HAVE to have a neutral (240v heating elements don't have a neutral, just 2 hots) ... but it's in your box, it needs to be accounted for.


 
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