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Old 12-26-2012, 10:11 PM   #11
jCOSbrew
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Feb 2012
Colorado Springs, CO
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Feel free to modify the BIAB process to match your equipment.
For example, you can heat 6-7 gallons to strike temp for the mash and top off for the boil after the mash. In my fist couple BIAB batches I am only loosing .5-.75 gallons of water to grain absorption w/ 10-12 lb grain bill. If you don't squeeze the bag, then you will lose more water.

Also it is much easier to top off before the boil then it is boil off an extra gallon or 2 of water.

 
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Old 12-26-2012, 10:43 PM   #12
ColoHox
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Oct 2011
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Cider123 View Post
I have a biology degree and have taught all levels of high school biology. Fermentation was merely a process after glycolysis (Poor wee-beasties, they gotta get their NAD+ back somehow) until I got into brewing. Now it's so much more interesting.
Not to get too off topic or anything, but I credit my high school biology teacher with getting me into science. He made all the topics so accessible and relatable.

Glad brew day went well. As RM-MN said, the low efficiency probably had to do with your crush. Back to your original question...were you able to hold a steady mash temp and where did you brew?
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Old 12-27-2012, 03:13 AM   #13
Cider123
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Nov 2010
, Maine
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Yeah, I had read that since there's no concern of a stuck mash, I could crush the grains finer. But alas, I don't have a grinder. Just another upgrade that I haven't gotten to yet. I have to rely on the online vendor (brewmaster's warehouse) to grind for me. Next time I'll ask if they could run it through a second time. My LBS went south this year. The stainless brew pot and wort chiller made it past my financial advisor pretty much unnoticed. I just can't start upgrading too quickly. These things take time. Now a keezer, well that seed was planted, all in good time.

I forgot to check my pre-boil OG to see where I stood, but then as a rookie, I doubt I would have known if the number was too high or low based on the amount of wort I had.

It was a blustery 30 degrees or below in the garage with the doors open. I got the strike water up to 160F before adding grains. The grains dropped it down to the low 150's. I then used a old comforter over the pot. Even then, every 15 minutes or so, I had to stir and crank the burner. I fluxed between 150 and 154 most of the time. I hope this is easier in more moderate weather.
I didn't have to worry about the wort chiller working, my well water is a steady 50F. As it left the chiller, it froze on the driveway.

One thing that seems to be up for debate is the bag on the bottom of the pot. Some say that using a colander to keep the bag off the bottom is a waste. Some claim that you'll never get the bottom of a three ply pot hot enough to melt the bag. Others claim they have melted the bag. I let the bag hang loose and it did not stick or melt (luckly).

 
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Old 12-27-2012, 11:53 AM   #14
RM-MN
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Nov 2010
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i use a grain mill like this one (http://www.amazon.com/Premium-Qualit...rds=grain+mill) and it works well for BIAB. I set it for as fine a grind as I can and since I have the bag to filter I don't have to worry about getting the wort out.

 
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Old 12-27-2012, 08:48 PM   #15
Cider123
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Nov 2010
, Maine
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Well, she's already bubbling away.

I was checking out the "barley crusher". EdWort likes his which is good enough for me, and it comes all set to sit on a 5 gallon pail and attach to your power drill.

 
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Old 12-28-2012, 05:03 AM   #16
iambeer
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May 2012
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Just wanted to say Cheers! I love all grain brewing. There is something magical about making beer with grains.

 
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