I used these
dc switchcraft connections. I also used this
switch to switch the negative wire going to the SSR from the PID. The way it works is that when I switch up, the hlt float switch makes or breaks the negative dc feed to the ssr. When switched to the middle or down, the pid neg is directly connected to the SSR for using the BK which doesn't have a float switch. Caveat: you have to make sure that you have the switch up when using the HLT if you want to have the float switch protection!
I'm not an electrician or EE so take this for what it's worth. This worked for me but there are other, possibly better ways to do it. There is an old thread around here somewhere where passedpawn drew something like this up for somebody. It was very helpful.
This is my bad drawing. The negative from the PID is branched off into two wires (twisted,soldered, heat shrinked). One wire goes to the float switch and one goes to the toggle switch pin 3. The other wire of the float switch goes to pin 1. The middle pin (2) is connected to the SSR. Pins 4,5, and 6 are not used in this application. (see linked switch, NKK M2024 documentation. Note: I did not do any external connecting of pins as noted in that doc.)
The switch pics are all upside down as it's installed on the open lid of my
Hopefully this makes sense and is helpful. I'm not very savvy with this stuff so I used my ohm meter to check everything to make sure I understood how it all worked. It worked exactly like I hoped this past weekend.