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Home Brew Forums > Home Brewing Beer > All Grain & Partial Mash Brewing > Consistent Off-Flavor in my Centennial Blonde
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Old 12-19-2012, 08:36 PM   #11
acefaser
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I would look into your HLT even though I doubt it is the cause.
EDIT:
Do you clean you HLT with oxyclean? This may oxidize the aluminum and cause flavor problems.

If you dont notice the flavor in your other beers. Your water has a high PH and the darker beers can lower that PH to optimal levels unlike this blonde. Do you use any water salts/water software? Usually astringent flavors are noticed from high PH/tannin extraction but this is all I can see that could be a problem since you don't have the flavors in your other beer.


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Old 12-19-2012, 08:41 PM   #12
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@stpug: While this latest batch is just out of the carboy, the previous batch was over 2 months in the keg, and if anything, got worse. I finally ditched the last 2+gals.

@CGVT: I would be extremely surprised if not rinsing enough is the culprit as I would say I over-do that part of it, plus I use Starsan as a sanitizer which is supposedly a no-rinse sanitizer.

I might say there is a small astringency element to the taste. I originally described it as "iodine" to my wife who then suggested "soapy" which I probably would say fits it better. I recently read that overmilling can lead to an iodine flavor.

Anyone see anything peculiar or out of line with the water profile? I don't know much about that part of it yet.


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Old 12-19-2012, 08:52 PM   #13
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Guidry View Post
19. Wait until airlock activity ceases and take gravity reading
20. 24 hrs later, repeat gravity reading until no change
21. Siphon beer to keg
Sounds like you have a yeast mutation problem.

An airlolck slowing down plus 24 hours is probably not enough time for the yeast to adequately clean up after themselves. Any light ale, blonde ale, kolsch etc....will be much more sensitive to off flavors as the flavor and aroma profile are so mild.

Next time try getting back to some simple basics.

Give your beer two full weeks in the primary.
Rack it to a secondary with gelatin.
48 hours in the secondary and it should be clear as a bell and ready to rack to a keg.

Let the yeast have adequate time to clean up after themselves....then do what you can to clear that yeast out of the beer before kegging.

Also...make sure (and I speak from bad experience) that you are keeping crushed grains and grain dust away from your post boil wort.
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Old 12-19-2012, 09:02 PM   #14
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Quote:
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You think it could be my kettle I use to heat the strike water? Ya think even at temps <180degs, the flavor could be produced?

Now that you mention, maybe the cleaning with oxyclean removed the oxidation from the aluminum. I remember reading somewhere how to "recondition" the aluminum....Going look for that text.
I use an aluminum pot to heat my strike water. It used to be my brew kettle before I upgraded to a 10-gallon system. I don't think that's your problem. I think it's the high alkaline water. I have had the same problem since we moved 3 years ago. Every one of my beers were pale ales and there was this consistent off flavor similar to what you describe, in every one of them. Then I brewed a brown ale that turned out to be FANTASTIC. I've been studying water chemistry/residual alkalinity and I'm fairly certain that the high alkalinity of my water is to blame. The darker grains are more acidic and will lower the mash ph. That's why my darker beers turned out great. You said you didn't notice it in your porters or stouts and I'm guessing you didn't notice it in your IPA because of the amount of hops masking it, maybe? If your water tastes good and your darker beers are fine, try adding some gypsum to the mash and kettle for your paler beers. Using Five Star 5.2 pH Stabilizer might work, too, but it isn't cheap. Other people swear by it, though. You could also try using bottled spring water just for your paler beers.
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Old 12-19-2012, 09:08 PM   #15
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Quote:
Originally Posted by BierMuncher View Post
Sounds like you have a yeast mutation problem.

An airlolck slowing down plus 24 hours is probably not enough time for the yeast to adequately clean up after themselves. Any light ale, blonde ale, kolsch etc....will be much more sensitive to off flavors as the flavor and aroma profile are so mild.

Next time try getting back to some simple basics.

Give your beer two full weeks in the primary.
Rack it to a secondary with gelatin.
48 hours in the secondary and it should be clear as a bell and ready to rack to a keg.

Let the yeast have adequate time to clean up after themselves....then do what you can to clear that yeast out of the beer before kegging.

Also...make sure (and I speak from bad experience) that you are keeping crushed grains and grain dust away from your post boil wort.
The only thing BierMuncher stated that I don't do is secondary or gelatin. I get my beer to clear by cold crashing. But that's after 2 weeks minimum in primary. 3 weeks is even better. THEN I cold crash for a day or 3, rack to keg and let sit on serving pressure for a week or so before serving (no force carb). Most of my beers are at least a month old before they're served. Really hoppy beers even longer.
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Old 12-19-2012, 09:09 PM   #16
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Quote:
Originally Posted by BierMuncher View Post
Sounds like you have a yeast mutation problem.

An airlolck slowing down plus 24 hours is probably not enough time for the yeast to adequately clean up after themselves. Any light ale, blonde ale, kolsch etc....will be much more sensitive to off flavors as the flavor and aroma profile are so mild.

Next time try getting back to some simple basics.

Give your beer two full weeks in the primary.
Rack it to a secondary with gelatin.
48 hours in the secondary and it should be clear as a bell and ready to rack to a keg.

Let the yeast have adequate time to clean up after themselves....then do what you can to clear that yeast out of the beer before kegging.

:
The previous batch of this beer sat for well over a week in the primary and then, because I wasn't in a hurry, I put it in the secondary for a week, including 3 days in the fridge to try and clear it. It never cleared. This one seems very cloudy also. This batch used Danstar BRY-97, the previous had US05.

I brewed this as a last minute idea for a work Christmas party. Unless something changes drastically, I'll be bringing a keg of stout I have instead.
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Old 12-19-2012, 09:16 PM   #17
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I'd agree with those who have you looking at your water. I have pretty high pH and high bicarbonate water myself. I was having similar issues on my pale beers when using solely my house water.

I spent several weeks over on the brew science forums and the guys over there helped a lot. I now use a mix of my water and distilled water. I use some of the pH reducing salts like CaCl and gypsum to replace what I take out by going with distilled water. For my very pale beers like the Lawnmower beer I keep around for some friends, I even go so far as to toss in a little acid malt to adjust my mash pH.

With water like yours (your pH is even higher than mine), you really need to get the carbonates and pH under control. And decent pH meters can be had for under $80. Well worth it if you're tossing beers that develop any of these flavors.
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Old 12-19-2012, 09:21 PM   #18
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I'm sticking with my original thought of PH. I just plugged your water profile and BierMuncher's centennial blonde recipe into EZ water and found your mash PH to be way to high at 5.79 and it should be 5.4-5.6. You should look into using Lactic acid and brewing salts to bring your profile within limits.
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Old 12-19-2012, 09:25 PM   #19
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Quote:
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The only thing BierMuncher stated that I don't do is secondary or gelatin. I get my beer to clear by cold crashing. But that's after 2 weeks minimum in primary. 3 weeks is even better. THEN I cold crash for a day or 3, rack to keg and let sit on serving pressure for a week or so before serving (no force carb). Most of my beers are at least a month old before they're served. Really hoppy beers even longer.
I rarely secondary these days....usually strainght to keg (but always with gelatin). I'm just looking for some an extra step that may clean up the taste.

If the OP has his original dip tubes in his kegs and racks straight to keg, it could also be that he's drawing out enough yeast sediment to throw the flavor of the beer off. That's why I removed all my dip tubes and gave them a slightly sharper bend...to get that end about 1/2 inch off the bottom.
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Old 12-19-2012, 09:25 PM   #20
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If those don't work, try discarding the first 3-4oz of beer from each night that you pull a draft beer. I have pharma grade tubing for my keg system and all SS parts and perlick faucets, but the first 3-4oz coming out of the keg ALWAYS taste funky. Try that and see if you get the true flavor you are looking for.


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